Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well done BenM but just having a look through it I can see there are some people talking shit there which I dont know why they would.. but yeah some of those are not true.

I know one guy there who has not run what he claims

They are only kidding themselves, not me.

Thanks for the heads-up tho :P

  • Replies 347
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest MFX_R33
I think maybe for now on Ben time slips must be scanned and shown, what do you reckon?

Harun you forgot to post your 60ft time

Time slips aren't much better, as they have no names on them, so you can't tell who's who anyway. One of my runs was against DBRONX WRX and it ran a 10.3. I could just say that was my time.

If someone is enough of a loser to lie about their time, poeple will find out and people will know how pathetic they are.

Jeff.

If I make time slips a requirement then i'd have a total of about 10 people on the list.

Personally... i'd rather be 1sec slower than everyone else then you fib my times and then have 1000 people find out :(

I think Franky has a timeslip against DBRONX too. Awesome if i didnt have it on video though!! :-p

I have a timeslip showing 3.6 @ 6.8mph! Damn plastic bags blowing through the lights!!! Grrr...

I think timeslips are a must for a thread like this but it is really up to benm. :D

Adrian

Guest MFX_R33

I will dig my timeslips up.

I can actually say that I beat DBRONX, cause on my side it says winner. I won't mention the fact that he stalled it up on the line for almost 5 seconds and flew past me a split second after i crossed the line with a 13.7 to his 10.3 :wassup:

Jeff.

One of my customers managed 12.3 in an R33 GTS at Perths motor plex last wed night with only 306rwhp but on race rubber.Very basic bolt on mods only running a Cooler ,Exhaust, Plugin Wolf ECU and a 25/40 Turbo.

Steve thats got to be expected really as by race rubber you mean slicks? If so there's no real comparision to any of the times in this thread as all times are on radial tyres, I'm pretty sure with slicks 90% of the cars on the list would drop there times up to a second plus because all of a sudden the launch isn't as hard and wheel spin is all but gone due to the crinkle sidewall and grip slicks provide

Yep if your happy not running in street trim I guess it is but as I said there is no comparision with that time and the times the cars have ran on this thread because as stated on page 1 NO slick tyres

We can start a new thread if you like for times ran on slicks?

  • 2 weeks later...

The webpage has now been updated (http://skylines.pnc.com.au). I'm still surprised by the lack of R32 and R33 GTR's.

I added in afew more averages to show the difference between the different model Skylines. Obviously the amount of R33 GTS-T makes the biggest impact of this.

Also if everyone currently on the list PM's 1 friend from this forum and lets them know about this thread then we could easily get another 30+ 1/4 times which will make it much more interesting and accurate :(

Ben do you think we could maybe start a section for other imports aswell as there is a lot of other cars then Skylines on the forum

Also now people like Steve-SST are quoting times ran on race rubber hehehe (slicks) we could have a mixed car section for times ran on slicks they wouldn't have to be added to the over all times but merely have there own section for braggging or bagging rights :)

Yup I have many ideas for this 1/4 list but the biggest problem is getting SAU to participate in it.

Some things I would like to add are:

* Tyre sizes (ie; 225/50/16)

* Tyre Brand and model

* Tyre pressure

* 1/4 Mile Track location

* Petrol used

These (to begin with) would give everyone on the list (or reading the list) some great information as it could show that the quick cars are all using similar sized tyres or brand tyre (eg; nitto) etc etc.

If the people already on the list would like to PM me your answers to the 5 above questions then I can start to add this information to the list.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...