Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys sorry if its already been asked but i really dont want to read 20+ pages!

My engine is getting tuned in a few weeks(rb25 conversion into a 32) and im using the standard rb20box for the moment. Im looking at changing gearbox oils as my clutch is getting installed later in the week so i thought now is a good a time as any. Its currently abit notchy from 3rd to 4th but i dont get any crunching in high gears etc. Ive read redline can be bad if your gearbox isnt on its way (ie bad syncros) but i dont really know if a 'notchy' gearbox is considered on its way :wave:. Im basically looking at any ways to give my box a easier life. Any info on the matter would be appreciated.

Cheers!

Hi guys sorry if its already been asked but i really dont want to read 20+ pages!

My engine is getting tuned in a few weeks(rb25 conversion into a 32) and im using the standard rb20box for the moment. Im looking at changing gearbox oils as my clutch is getting installed later in the week so i thought now is a good a time as any. Its currently abit notchy from 3rd to 4th but i dont get any crunching in high gears etc. Ive read redline can be bad if your gearbox isnt on its way (ie bad syncros) but i dont really know if a 'notchy' gearbox is considered on its way :laugh:. Im basically looking at any ways to give my box a easier life. Any info on the matter would be appreciated.

Cheers!

Go for the Redline MT90 75w90 gear oil instead of the light weight shockproof. It will improved your notchy shifting.

Go for the Redline MT90 75w90 gear oil instead of the light weight shockproof. It will improved your notchy shifting.

Hey mate

German Castrol...where can I get some you reckon?

I did my first UOA on my Redline in my FTO...not stella results but as expected as its the first run with the redline. I use the 5W30. I will do an oil chnage and run it again for 5k and sample it again. Si levels were a bit high....go to BITOG and have a look a thte results if u like..

I will get another kit and test the R33 which has been running 10W40 Redline for about 7000kms...I'm thinking of switching to the 5W30 in the R33 also...or even the GC if I could get it in both...depending on the price.

But I think I will do some runs with both with the redline and see if after about 3 OCIs I can get some good results.

KJ

I did my first UOA on my Redline in my FTO...not stella results but as expected as its the first run with the redline. I use the 5W30. I will do an oil chnage and run it again for 5k and sample it again. Si levels were a bit high....go to BITOG and have a look a thte results if u like..

But I think I will do some runs with both with the redline and see if after about 3 OCIs I can get some good results.

KJ

Did you send in a VOA?

Si generally indicates poor air filtration.

What else made you think it was a poor uoa apart from the high levels of silicon?

Hey mate

German Castrol...where can I get some you reckon?

I did my first UOA on my Redline in my FTO...not stella results but as expected as its the first run with the redline. I use the 5W30. I will do an oil chnage and run it again for 5k and sample it again. Si levels were a bit high....go to BITOG and have a look a thte results if u like..

I will get another kit and test the R33 which has been running 10W40 Redline for about 7000kms...I'm thinking of switching to the 5W30 in the R33 also...or even the GC if I could get it in both...depending on the price.

But I think I will do some runs with both with the redline and see if after about 3 OCIs I can get some good results.

KJ

Can be found in Ebay.

Castrol Syntec 0w30

Did you send in a VOA?

Si generally indicates poor air filtration.

What else made you think it was a poor uoa apart from the high levels of silicon?

Si and all metals in my UOA are pretty high comparatively. Redline will give higher wear numbers at first due to cleaning values. So its only the first and hard to tell. But if u looked at it at a glance, it would be no great. I'm doing more soon on the line and and sample in the FTO.

Can be found in Ebay.

Castrol Syntec 0w30

thanks..

I have been ordering from Harold @ (0414369 926) Performancelub.com. Might be the same guy as the products are the same and the price is also...I didn't realise he sold Castrol.. !

I have decided to stick with reldine for the moment, do some more tests and see what happens.

thanks..

I have been ordering from Harold @ (0414369 926) Performancelub.com. Might be the same guy as the products are the same and the price is also...I didn't realise he sold Castrol.. !

I have decided to stick with reldine for the moment, do some more tests and see what happens.

I have seen your UOA and doubt you will have an accurate reading unless after 3 OCI, ester base Redline has an aggressive cleaning abilities and it will show higher wear reading from the metal it displace. I would say save your UOA test till at less 30k later.

I have seen your UOA and doubt you will have an accurate reading unless after 3 OCI, ester base Redline has an aggressive cleaning abilities and it will show higher wear reading from the metal it displace. I would say save your UOA test till at less 30k later.

I was going to do another one just cos I'm intrested to see if the numbers come out similar.

Apart form that I've got a new batch of the 5W30 from Harold above and putting that in soon.

Next is the r33. I have been using 10W40 redline but I have noticed a bit of oil usage, not to much. SO I asked the boys if they reckon a 30wt would help say seal the rings a bit better. So I'm giving that a go also...

Hey guys just looking at doing an oil change for my R34 GTT. I bought some Motul 300v 5W30 is that going to be okay? At the moment the max temps down here are around the high 20s/low 30s but avgs around mid 20s. The car currently has elf 10w/50 in it.

Also is 4L enough or do I need to go buy another 2L container? (was the only size they had)

Hey guys just looking at doing an oil change for my R34 GTT. I bought some Motul 300v 5W30 is that going to be okay? At the moment the max temps down here are around the high 20s/low 30s but avgs around mid 20s. The car currently has elf 10w/50 in it.

Also is 4L enough or do I need to go buy another 2L container? (was the only size they had)

5w30 is good but do check your AFR if it's running rich or lean as too rich a AFR will increase fuel dilution in the oil thus making it thinner than 30wt.

5w30 is good but do check your AFR if it's running rich or lean as too rich a AFR will increase fuel dilution in the oil thus making it thinner than 30wt.

Hey thanks mate, I actually read around a bit and ended up taking 300v back and getting 5L of the Motul turbolite 10w40. Was a lot cheaper than the 4L of 300v and as you mentioned I didn't want to run the risk of it getting 'too' thin.

Anyway all went well and the car feels so much nicer to drive :P

Hey thanks mate, I actually read around a bit and ended up taking 300v back and getting 5L of the Motul turbolite 10w40. Was a lot cheaper than the 4L of 300v and as you mentioned I didn't want to run the risk of it getting 'too' thin.

Anyway all went well and the car feels so much nicer to drive :no:

Motul turbolite 10w40 is just a Semi-Syn oil, I would recommend at least a fully synthetic for turbo cleanliness and high temp protection. A wide spread 10w40 type semi-syn is not really a good idea for ring cleanliness i would think. Choose Mobil 0w40 or Delvac 5w40, whichever is cheaper. those are good oil at reasonable prices.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...