Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I coulda delivered a 5L Sougi to your door for $75 :)

Too late now! For $75 I would have probably just shelled out the extra for 300v. I guess 300v is as good as it gets in terms of proven(for Nissans) and on paper performance so for peace of mind I dont mind paying the extra. Especially since im not doing that well with 8100.

You should get some tested to check out its additive package so we can compare with 300v :miner:

Too late now! For $75 I would have probably just shelled out the extra for 300v. I guess 300v is as good as it gets in terms of proven(for Nissans) and on paper performance so for peace of mind I dont mind paying the extra. Especially since im not doing that well with 8100.

You should get some tested to check out its additive package so we can compare with 300v :thumbsup:

By extra you mean an extra $75 lol. The main problem with 300V is it doesn't come in a 5L bottle, but a 4L. Thus you have to then fork out an additional $60 for the 2L on top of the nearly $100 for the 4L.

You can't go wrong with Sougi either, but the 300V is you're prepared to pay the $$ is a top choice.

Too late now! For $75 I would have probably just shelled out the extra for 300v. I guess 300v is as good as it gets in terms of proven(for Nissans) and on paper performance so for peace of mind I dont mind paying the extra. Especially since im not doing that well with 8100.

You should get some tested to check out its additive package so we can compare with 300v ;)

Damn Kong beat me to it...I was going to say, doesn't your sump take more than 4 litres? I thought most were about 4.5. For $75 you wouldn't have had to leave your house :/

But the Motul is an awesome oil, you won't go wrong with it...

Haha I don't want to get Sougi tested and have possibly more people find out it's the bomb = less oil for me left in GW's depleting stocks. But be my guest :)

Ok so since a lot of people are just naming oils saying they are good or bad etc, it would be good if we could get a lot of opinions on their top 5 oils.

Ignoring value for money etc just the top 5 oils (you can get easily) you'd use.

I have a couple of on pars so it's not exactly a top 5 but same deal:

1. Motul 300V / Sougi 6000

2. Royal Purple / Redline

3. Elf (if only they made a 10w40) / Amsoil

4. Sougi M5000 (thus far proving good but hasn't had the test of time yet)

5. Syn-X 3000

i really hope thats not the case for the 08 wrx's. Read the whole thread on the REX forum. They seem to advise against fully synthetic as it 'glazes' the pistons...and some guy reckons his engine blew from 300v!!? Doubt it was the 300v, the best oil I have ever used in my GTR. Still have to talk to the subaru service centre.

Wouldn't have anything to do with him putting two zillion PSI through it ?? nah that wouldn't count :/

By extra you mean an extra $75 lol. The main problem with 300V is it doesn't come in a 5L bottle, but a 4L. Thus you have to then fork out an additional $60 for the 2L on top of the nearly $100 for the 4L.

You can't go wrong with Sougi either, but the 300V is you're prepared to pay the $$ is a top choice.

Damn Kong beat me to it...I was going to say, doesn't your sump take more than 4 litres? I thought most were about 4.5. For $75 you wouldn't have had to leave your house :P

But the Motul is an awesome oil, you won't go wrong with it...

Haha I don't want to get Sougi tested and have possibly more people find out it's the bomb = less oil for me left in GW's depleting stocks. But be my guest :D

Yeah it does take 4.5L. Its annoying that the bottles come in 4L but look at it this way - I bought two 4L bottles - thats 8L. I will have over 3L left over. This means that I only need to buy a single bottle for the next 3 changes. If you buy 4L+2L its a rip off.

I change oil around 3 times per year so whenever there is a sale on ill usually stock up anyhow. I guess if you dont change your oil often then it seems like a big initial outlay though.

You cant get that many oils off the shelf in most places around Sydney.. so my list is pretty limited :ermm:

-300v (group V)

-Royal purple (group IV)

-8100 (group IV)

Pretty much everything else you can buy easily in 10 or 5w-40 is mineral oil.

Good, I've heard nothing but good reports about YJ's. Splitfire are awesome in their own right but I challenge someone to tell the difference between the two (besides the colour). Get them and use 1.1mm plugs and you'll be running sweet.

Engine probably does rev up faster...smooth is fast and there's less inertia with a light synthetic oil like Sougi.

heya, i know this isn't the place to ask but wanted to get some fresh opinions (ie: ones that aren't 7 years old) as a band-aid solution, how does wrapping electrical tape round the coilpacks rate as a temporary fix?

Edited by Galois

Rates well as it is the cracks that develop in the housing of the coil packs that result in misfire...

But it's on par with putting Redline Shockproof in your ailing gearbox...get the friggen thing reconditioned!

I should have time to replace my oil on Saturday. As pessimistic as I am about this, I will try my best to sense any perceptible difference after the change :(

Worked on the car on Saturday, I did not perceive any difference to the way the car ran. If no one told me it was changed I wouldnt have known the difference. This going from punished 8100 5w40 to brand new 10w40 300v. I do expect to see some differences in the UOA when next oil change comes around. Did someother work on the car and noticed a difference in every other change I made (plugs, air filter, caster bush adjustment)

it's a tall order to expect to be able to tell the difference if several things are changed at once, esp when the changes are meant to make the car run smoother, like plugs and air filter, the oil change difference can be dwarfed by them.

also, you're going from group IV 8100 to group V 300V after only 3000km ( ? can't remember exactly), both good oils with a lot of performance fans. if you really want to know what everyone else on here is talking about with oil perception, put something really shitty in for 500km and see if you can tell. i recommend magnatec lol.

<cut>

I have a couple of on pars so it's not exactly a top 5 but same deal:

1. Motul 300V / Sougi 6000

2. Royal Purple / Redline

3. Elf (if only they made a 10w40) / Amsoil

4. Sougi M5000 (thus far proving good but hasn't had the test of time yet)

5. Syn-X 3000

Just curious why you have Royal Purple are your no 2 an Amsoil as no 3?

I know Royal purple is a mix of group III/IV/V from what I've read, I haven't heard anything that good about it except the marketing, have you used it much?

Amsoil I'm not so sure about either, I would personally have Mobil 1 in there somewhere, and German Castrol would be near the top for me :thumbsup:

I've used Amsoil, German Castrol, and normal Castrol, I can't recall if I used Mobil 1 at some stage.

Royal Purple has quite a bit of word of mouth going about (it's had notable mention throughout this thread if I recall correctly), I've actually seen very little marketing of it myself, beyond infiltration of enthusiast circles. But from our workshop's experience a very good oil - we actually considered distributing for them before settling on GW. Amsoil was another one.

The GW ones I've had the most experience with but that's no coincidence.

My problem with Mobil 1 is much the same as Shell Helix Ultra, it's frequently marketed in print media and yet I haven't heard much good on the car enthusiast grapevine in Australia. Both Mobil and Shell have really gone Eurotrash. Add to this that it doesn't come in my favourite 10w40 grade and it doesn't make my list. The only reason Elf scraped in is because of 5w40 being just shy of it.

Can you re-word that man it sounds a bit confusing?

OK , I've got manufacturers spec in the ambient 0-20c temp range of 10wx40 and in the 15c and up ambient temp range of 15wx40 any sugestions--oh and what little wonder of a manufacturer came up with that one---why BMW --of course. :D

I think what Basho means is that he has found that BMW recommends using 10w40 in climates between 0-20deg and 15w40 in climates over 15deg.

Basho, when I mentioned follow the manufacturer spec, this is car specific so look in the user manual for your car and follow that rather than the recommendation for any other engine.

For example the standard oil recommended for an RB25 is 7.5w30.

agreed.

also remember to take climate into account, eg: on average its hotter in aus than in japan.

and that oil requirements change over the life of an engine, and that every car is different ie: different cars are happy with different oils

Ahhh I see now. Yeah generally speaking I would say follow the manufacturer's specification assuming it is tailored to Australian climates (or like BMW did, i.e. specified temperature and appropriate viscosity). Just make sure you take into account worn engine tolerances down the track...it will eventually require a heavier viscosity than specified in an owner's manual.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...