Rb30 Blocks From R31 Skylines

[unique1]

quick question, im lookin for a rb30 block and found some from r31 skylines, im just wondering do they all come with the provisions for oil and water feeds for turbos like the series 2 vl engines do? and also do they have the area for the tensioner to sit on? if they come with both s1 and s2 engines what years are the suitable blocks? i found one a fair way away and dont want to drive for an hour and a half to find out its the wrong one and i doubt the owner could tell me over the phone.

[silver gts-t]

for the cost of petrol to drive 1.5 hours you can buy another block.

call your local wrecker or check out calaisturbo.com

[VB-]

very interested to know this myself, i've currently got a VL with a rooted head, and can source another complete motor cheap from an R31

from what i've read they are the same with oil and water fittings, althought i read something that said the heater hoses were different fittings, one was 3/4 one wasw 5/8. but this was from an RB30DET guide/site and it just said commodore and skyline block, so i dont know if he was talking about the RB25 that he sourced the head from.... anyone know?

[unique1]

for the cost of petrol to drive 1.5 hours you can buy another block.

call your local wrecker or check out calaisturbo.com

theres plenty of blocks for sale around here its just this particular one is a rebuilt one with very low km's (also cheap as) and i just want something cheap initially to see how i like the rb30 setup compared to keeping it a rb26. Im not chasing big power either so it should be fine as long as its got the oil and water lines and tensioner area

i was also trying to work out how much to do a freshen up on a rb30 with basic parts, im keeping stock internals, just need some rings, bearings and a hone and deck, any ideas how much bearings (i know acl race series are around $200 for the lot, anything cheaper and good?) and rings are worth for new stock stuff? hone and deck is under $200, and assembly i can do myself.

Edited June 20, 2008 by unique1

[VB-]

200 is cheap, dont f*ck around with shit bearings, just go ACL IMO.

edit - in retrospect, if your getting the bottom end REALLY cheap, it might seem stupid to spend so much on bearings, ring nissan or bursons and see how much they want for cheapo ones

Edited June 23, 2008 by VB-

[unique1]

200 is cheap, dont f*ck around with shit bearings, just go ACL IMO.

edit - in retrospect, if your getting the bottom end REALLY cheap, it might seem stupid to spend so much on bearings, ring nissan or bursons and see how much they want for cheapo ones

lol, thanks i know $200 is cheap its just if the motor is gonna be pushed and shit itself later i dont want to waste $200 on bearings. My other engine is a no expense spared setup making over 600hp at wheels so this engine i want to do the opposite and buy the least amount of stuff to get half decent results, i want cheap fun and not have to worry about killing expensive bottom ends, this way i can throw another one in for bugger all

[bubba]

I'm running NDC bearings (some Jap brand), seems fine and they were a fair bit cheaper than ACL's.

I would also get the crank machined for some oversize bearings just for peace of mind (I didn't do this the first time and discovered the crank had a heap of end float which munched the thrust washer, caught it before it got too bad but I was up for another set of bearings, crank machining only cost me $120).

[bigmaubis]

so did ne1 actually answer the original question?

[2BNVS]

yes they are the same. 100%. my 31 is an 88 model gxe for curiosity

[Cubes]

I would also get the crank machined for some oversize bearings just for peace of mind (I didn't do this the first time and discovered the crank had a heap of end float which munched the thrust washer, caught it before it got too bad but I was up for another set of bearings, crank machining only cost me $120).

Of which is part of a good build; ensuring all bits that go round are within spec.

The problem is trusting the engine builder to do the righty.

[unique1]

yes they are the same. 100%. my 31 is an 88 model gxe for curiosity

question answered finally, thanks mate

[VB-]

yes they are the same. 100%. my 31 is an 88 model gxe for curiosity

i've done more searching and since found out the rear heater hose outlet is different (apparently). no biggie though

[Cubes]

Regardless you have to replace it with the appropriate rb20/25/26 outlet anyway to suit the car its going in.

[VB-]

oh yeah sorry, i was talking about my case, i might be putting another standard RB30e into my vl

[bubba]

Of which is part of a good build; ensuring all bits that go round are within spec.

The problem is trusting the engine builder to do the righty.

It's not that the bits that go round weren't within spec, it's that the face that contacts the thrust washer was thrashed out which resulted in 5mm of end float and a munched oil pump (lucky it was the stocker).