Jump to content
SAU Community

Haltech R35 Gtr At Syd Auto Salon

jeff

By jeff,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

TaKz Proficient

TaKz

Posted
Posted

yep i was there today saw the gtr go on the dyno!

although there seem to be alot of problems on the dyno the r35 wouldnt stay in gear to complete the runs took about 4-5 goes before finalli producing the 366kw atw

also saw the sau stand next to the dyno!

and i just read yesterday about the r32 gtr that beer baron was building with the crate motor! i saw it and read that piece of paper that said 2007 crate motor and i was like oic thats the one i read about!

jonn Proficient

jonn

Posted
Posted (edited)

I would hazard a guess that the announcer doesn't know what he's talking about.

There is another thread floating around about the Haltech R35 that was producing 355kw @ 15psi during testing of the ecu at Gas Motorsport. The std boost is 10psi so.......

And this graph from the Haltech website,

2j30du0.jpg

Edited by jonn
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

It is super impressive how much power they have gained with just tuning and boost increase. what's just as impressive is how quick it is on road/strip/circuit to begin with considering it's packing "only" 290awkw from factory. Who would think a car that weighs so much, and has 20inch rims with road rubber, and packs under 300awkw would be such a super car beater. It just goes to show that torque, and response and how the power is delivered is so much more than just a peak number. and it shows how good the chassis and gearbox is. I have driven the standard car and it blows my mind, with 60awkw more it would just be off the planet! :D

m3gtr Grand Master

m3gtr

Posted
Posted
It is super impressive how much power they have gained with just tuning and boost increase. what's just as impressive is how quick it is on road/strip/circuit to begin with considering it's packing "only" 290awkw from factory. Who would think a car that weighs so much, and has 20inch rims with road rubber, and packs under 300awkw would be such a super car beater. It just goes to show that torque, and response and how the power is delivered is so much more than just a peak number. and it shows how good the chassis and gearbox is. I have driven the standard car and it blows my mind, with 60awkw more it would just be off the planet! :laugh:

when did you end up getting behind the wheel anyways richo?

Giants car was it?

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

hehehe, if you had just panned to the right at any time, you would have seen me sitting my lazy ass on the floor inside the cage :laugh:

yep i was there today saw the gtr go on the dyno!

although there seem to be alot of problems on the dyno the r35 wouldnt stay in gear to complete the runs took about 4-5 goes before finalli producing the 366kw atw

also saw the sau stand next to the dyno!

and i just read yesterday about the r32 gtr that beer baron was building with the crate motor! i saw it and read that piece of paper that said 2007 crate motor and i was like oic thats the one i read about!

Why doesn't anyone come say hi?! :laugh:

The deal with that was that when the operator put the pedal down, it was shifting it down a gear... dunno why...

I would hazard a guess that the announcer doesn't know what he's talking about.

There is another thread floating around about the Haltech R35 that was producing 355kw @ 15psi during testing of the ecu at Gas Motorsport. The std boost is 10psi so.......

And this graph from the Haltech website,

The announcer doesn't really know what he's talking about ALL the time :laugh: but so many cars go by, who can blame him...

But one thing that was mentioned was that an aftermarket exhaust system they tried only netted them a gain of a few kw... i thought it was hard to believe with there being cats right in the dumps, but maybe you really need to push some psi through there before they start restricting too much... iono :P

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
but seeing the guys at GAS and Haltech were there in and around the car with the announcer during the dyno run, they wouldve told the guy the info he needed to blurb out

Maybe they did, but like others here they mistook "standard everything" as being the car completely untouched, rather than just standard hardware. Its a bit too late to correct the guy after he's said it.

There's already been a bit of news about the Haltech R35 GT-R, and their ECU does modify boost as well as the timing (and possibly fuelling).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...