Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

I've got this strange problem with an R32 RB20. It has just an fmic, full exhaust, boost controller, etc. Still running the stock turbo.

Since it was bought, it's always had problems with missfiring under boost at higher rpm. We would change the plugs (Replace with BKR6Es gapped to 0.8mm) and it would drive well for around 1000-2000km, but then start missfiring again! Pull the plugs out, and they look fine, but put some new ones in and it drives well for another 1000-2000km?

I thought I'd try the BKR7Es on this car, as I use them in pretty much every other RB/SR with no issues whatsoever and something strange happened. The car wouldn't rev over 4000rpm. It was as if it was hitting a rev limiter? A really horrible missfire which would actually cause the revs to stop rising. We took the BKR7Es and gapped them all the way down to 0.6mm even and didn't help one bit! Tried taping up his coilpacks with electrical tape, and no help whatsoever.

After that we put another set of BKR6Es in and the car drove fine? But yet again, when 1500km ticked over, the missfiring came back.

Anyone have any ideas? :blush:

Thanks

Peter

Edited by Equinox

I'm having similar problems with my RB26DETT running a power FC with MAP sensor.

I might look into the ignitor pack also.

Mine only misfires when I hold the throttle steady above 4000rpm.

Very strange indeed.

I'll let you know if I find out what my problem is.

Rgds,

Grippy

Taping your coils isnt really a good fix for some coils anyway I had the same problem with mine so I tryed taping up the coils but didnt seem to work.

I gapped the plugs to .8 still missed in the end I just got some splitfires after that didnt even miss a beat also u dont have to change the gap to .8 i changed them back to 1.1 because my tunner said I wouldn't need them coz u would be creating enough spark with the splitfires.

How much Boost are you running?

have you thought of the fact that you are using BK plugs instead of BCP plugs. BK plugs are 2.5mm short than BCP plugs and might not be making a good connection up in the coilpack. the BCP plugs are the right size for a good contact on RB20 coilpacks

have you thought of the fact that you are using BK plugs instead of BCP plugs. BK plugs are 2.5mm short than BCP plugs and might not be making a good connection up in the coilpack. the BCP plugs are the right size for a good contact on RB20 coilpacks

Exactly what i was going to say QWK32, get some BCPR6ES and try, a crook ignitor "shouldn't" really come and go, usually they work or they dont lol.

Change the plugs, clean the afm, clean the coils, check your earth to the coils and good luck finding the miss as there is nothing more annoying than an miss :)

Could also be the coil loom/plugs on the loom, my plugs were falling apart causing a really horrible intermitent misfire (started only when hot then got gradually worse to where it was there all the time).

Thanks for all the help guys!

QWK32 I never thought of that. I'll give the other plugs a go. And I'll try to source another ignitor pack to swap it with to give it a try.

However, I think you're on the money bubba. I pulled off one of the plugs and had a look inside and the little piece of plastic which holds the pins against the sockets on the plug was broken! I wired the wires straight onto the coil pack for now until I can find a replacement plug. Put some new plugs in and it's working fine, for now. :(

Again, thanks for all the advice. I'll see how it goes!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...