Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive just built a 25/30 and want to upgrade the turbo to something a bigger. Currently i have twin T3/T4s and am thinking about something like a GT42 or GT45 or T51r.

Does anyone run any of these turbos on a 25/30 or 26/30? I want to use this on the street but mostly drags.

What revs do they start making boost and when is full boost??

Im not really worried about a bit of lag as i will be running nos to help bring it on boost.

I will have a rev limit around 8000rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225208-2530-turbo-options/
Share on other sites

I can sell you my T04z setup if you can find me a GT35 (GT35r, GT3540, etc) setup.

All the turbos he mentioned are much bigger than a T04Z, I suspect he is shooting for a different target to what your T04Z would.

Here is a dyno plot from an R34 GTR running a GT4202R on an RB30DET (cammed 26 head):

rb30760whpnq8.jpg

Thanks for that Lithium. It looks like the GT42 will go alright.

Has anone used a GT45 on a 3lt??

And the T51r has been done before. But they do sound awesome.

What are my options from a different brand of turbo. Turbonetics???

Thanks for that Lithium. It looks like the GT42 will go alright.

And the T51r has been done before. But they do sound awesome.

What are my options from a different brand of turbo. Turbonetics???

Yeah the GT4202R is on a full weight R34 GTR that has only done one run down the 1/4 which was far from clean and did a 9 "off the trailer" with an H-pattern box. It will go faster....

What do you mean by "sound awesome", the concept or the actual sound of them?? If you mean the whistle, GT40, GT42, GT45 etcs all have the same kind of sound due to the anti-surge compressor housings :) As alternatives I believe a Turbonetics T76 or GTK1000 are in the same territory, as with Trust T88. All the typical 1000hp beasts. There is a really rare IHI RX8 for sale in NZ at the moment, I believe 1200hp rated... could go for that and be one of very very few. Unfortunately you'll never get a straight out answer on what exactly to expect, as I for one know of no one aside from maybe Indy race cars which have used them.

Here is the R34 with the GT42R doing its run to get an idea of what kind of ride you could be in for:

GTK 1000 could be a go. Is anyone here using one of these??

lots of people in the us using them on 2js should be comparable to a rb30 results wise

though they are pretty new so there wont be thousands of them to look at

  • 2 weeks later...

Im using a t70 which is a garret replica, (couldnt afford the genuine item :) ) Its rated to 700hp, 40psi, externally gated and is of considerable size :D A friend of mine used one on his wrx (shudder) and was getting boost by 4000rpm. So hopefully il spool up around 3000rpm and listen to it whistle all the way up to redline :( When funding allows il upgrade to the t51r.

What other turbos are people running when using a big single???

What power range exactly do you mean?

Check out this site - possibly a bit out of date but has some listed:

http://t04r.com/turbos.php

These days there are neat things like the Garrett GT4088R and GT4094R, and in NZ there was or is a IHI RX8 which is an ~1100hp really flash thing.... they are basically used on indy cars.... that'd be interesting to see on a Skyline haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...