Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yer car is good quality 176xxx kms on the clock but only 50,000kms on the motor

94 so series 1

Extractors, Exedy clutch few basic mods relatively quick car

Good for P plater

All good selling points

But im more interested in an average price

Ive seen some selling for $6000 and others selling for $15000 so it makes it hard to say the actual value

Are non-turbos worth more than turbos now?

Edited by homedog56
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3966063
Share on other sites

Yeah, Series II's go for about 13 - 16K, Series I's unfortunately go for about 7 - 12K max.

I was looking into getting a R33 before, thats why i got a fresh idea of the prices, but then stumbled on the R34.

I'd pay 9 - 11k Max for your ride, truly because as Shane said, the KM's are a turn off.

But good luck with the sale anyways if you go ahead with it.

MRXTCZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3966840
Share on other sites

i payed 11.5 for mine a few weeks back (my new 1)

its a 95 series 1.5 with zorst rims and a kick ass stereo already on it (cost the guy 4500 for it installed got receipts) and it is in really mint condition the paintwork and tint and all. 140,000 on clock.

hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3968275
Share on other sites

I picked mine up at Christmas for $8500

White 1993 R33 Series 1 GTS with factory sunroof. 104,000km on the clock, no mods beyond 17" rims, pod and exhaust.

Add on an extra $1000 for new head unit (was stock Jap one, with Japanese frequencies and a cassette player), alarm, immobilizer and rego.

However, my mechanic looked it over and said it was worth at least $10,000. I just got lucky.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3970784
Share on other sites

What about mine?

96 Series 2, 65,000km, silver, no mods, sideskirts, genuine gtr spoiler and 17's?

Because I'm thinking of selling mine too

I'd be skeptical of your k's. I was told the clock on almost all imports is wound back somewhere between here and Japan, and numbers that low tell me that its almost a guarantee.

I remember looking at a GTS4 R33 that claimed it had 60,000kms on it. Just looking at the interior alone it looked like it had done 300,000. When looking at cars now I don't tend to worry so much about the k's, and just look at how clean the interior and engine bay is. I don't know enough to look beyond that even if I wanted to anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3970809
Share on other sites

I'd be skeptical of your k's. I was told the clock on almost all imports is wound back somewhere between here and Japan, and numbers that low tell me that its almost a guarantee.

I remember looking at a GTS4 R33 that claimed it had 60,000kms on it. Just looking at the interior alone it looked like it had done 300,000. When looking at cars now I don't tend to worry so much about the k's, and just look at how clean the interior and engine bay is. I don't know enough to look beyond that even if I wanted to anyway.

Frankly that comment just goes to show how ignorant you are about cars. as long as you have the import papers showing the km's on it, you should be pretty right. the average australian does about 15k a year, and it depends if its a daily or just a weekend'er.

in Japan when the cars get serviced the km's get entered into a DB, and when the car gets dereged to get exported they compare whats on the car with the DB to make sure they match up and if it doesnt look right they mark it on the papers.

Importing your self you shouldnt have too much worry, but buying from an import dealer, you should always ask for the import papers, and if they arent willing to show them to you, dont buy the car.

Edited by Grunta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3971023
Share on other sites

I'd be skeptical of your k's. I was told the clock on almost all imports is wound back somewhere between here and Japan, and numbers that low tell me that its almost a guarantee.

I remember looking at a GTS4 R33 that claimed it had 60,000kms on it. Just looking at the interior alone it looked like it had done 300,000. When looking at cars now I don't tend to worry so much about the k's, and just look at how clean the interior and engine bay is. I don't know enough to look beyond that even if I wanted to anyway.

Oh, forgot to mention..I have all the service records when the car was brand new in Japan to it leaving the docks of Japan with 59,000km's on the clock. All the service records has the dates on it from Nissan, so I'd think it is pretty genuine....

Anyway, back to my question, how much is it worth?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3971045
Share on other sites

Oh, forgot to mention..I have all the service records when the car was brand new in Japan to it leaving the docks of Japan with 59,000km's on the clock. All the service records has the dates on it from Nissan, so I'd think it is pretty genuine....

Anyway, back to my question, how much is it worth?

I'd personally say (this is just my guess - I have little experience to back it up) at least $14,000, if not more. Late model and low k's all help a lot. The colour and wing tickle my personal fancy as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3971188
Share on other sites

I'd personally say (this is just my guess - I have little experience to back it up) at least $14,000, if not more. Late model and low k's all help a lot. The colour and wing tickle my personal fancy as well.

It's so weird how everyone tells me the price of an NA skyline has gone up, due to the new P plate law.

But is that actually true? has it actually gone up in value?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225211-value/#findComment-3971218
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...