Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the title states. Can someone tell me what this plug is for? and also what it does. It is located coming out of the fuse box in my r33 skyline. The pic shows where the plug is. I am trying to find this information out because i dont have anything plugged into this socket and would like to know what it is for.

Cheers

post-47093-1214375687_thumb.jpg

Same here. Mines not plugged to anything. It's an open circuit. Where did you get that picture from. It shows something plugged on and going somewhere under the car.

Edited by teng

Looks like my RHF wheel speed sensor harness. Going in the right direction too. Check if you can find a similar one on the other side of the engine bay. It will be mean't to go to the LHF wheel speed sensor.

Hrrmm, duno bout it being the wheel speed sensor, the wheel would come pretty close there.

R32's I know, run the sensor wire through the back side (firewall side) of the strut tower... the driver side one being RIGHT where you'd want to place an ext gate :D

Stick your head in the front wheel well...

Edited by GeeTR

this is what mine looks like in my car. so there is no point looking in the wheel well

post-47093-1214518035_thumb.jpg

You can just see the pplug dangling in the bottom left corner.

Please ignore the red arrow

Edited by jonzie26
  • 2 weeks later...

its the link for when you want to upgrade to Vtek y0. gives your 200 bazillion trillian kW at the wheels. All nissans have it for when they need to race a honda civic with a k22 VteK forged internals lumpy cams +turbo +supercharger 22psi, 1 wheel drive egg beater.

=D

If its diag, what is plugged into it on jonzie26's pic?

I would like to know as well. If i were him, I would just rip the driver side fender panel and have a look at where the damn wire is going. Take pictures then post it up here :P

Easy as pie.

but.......

The 1st picture isn't jonzie26 car isn't it :(

Edited by teng
but.......

The 1st picture isn't jonzie26 car isn't it :P

haha nope - though he could ask the owner of that car where it goes

he's posted pics in one of the catch can threads in the Fabrication section.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...