Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been thinking about either buying a viewsonic 28" LCD which retails around $700-800 while the Samsung 30" retails for $1800-2000. Anyone has one or recommend of one? i current have a samsung 22". LCD made by samsung is pretty good, clear and sharp not 100% sure about viewsonic

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225526-28-lcd-or-30-lcd/
Share on other sites

I'm leaning toward the viewsonic there's not a huge size difference 2" but with a huge price difference. Its mainly for design so the bigger the screen the better as there's more room for my colour pallets tools etc.

What's the clarity of the viewsonic screen like? it is sharp and bright?

what are you using it for? a monitor or a TV?

I bought one of those 28" viewsonics for ~7xx and it was pretty good..would make an good monitor..it is damn bright..the white is really good.

however..as a TV..it has no remote..and you need a tuner....plus it started making this buzzing noise so I returned it less than a week later. decided I will save money and get a proper plasma/lcd...

the other thing is that its an older 6bit LCD screen, and it doesnt have a terribly great viewing angle (again not a huge issue if you use it as a monitor)

samsung 40" ... thats what i got ..i paid 1568 wif gst ..LA40R81BDX is the model number... very good for what it is.. GTA4 on ps3 never looked so damn good!!!

i got the sony bravia 40" (1080HD) ... but paid 2k...

+1 for GTA4 :thumsup:

Edited by JMP 82
I'm leaning toward the viewsonic there's not a huge size difference 2" but with a huge price difference. Its mainly for design so the bigger the screen the better as there's more room for my colour pallets tools etc.

What's the clarity of the viewsonic screen like? it is sharp and bright?

I'd say the quality of the display from a viewsonic is pretty much the same as most of the "known brands".

Oh, and I managed to do all my design work on my 17'' Phillips LCD :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...