Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

u wuold change the cam gears to make 320awkw keets??

damn ur clueless... i was sittin on 296awkw on the dyno @ 15psi and runnin around 18psi when i got off.. thats over 300awkw

stock cams and stock cam gears and stock dump n front pipes....

stock injectors and fuel pump and regulator.. although things were gettin a lil lean by then. im also running what appears to be stock afms.

i wouldnt go for a 5puk clutch thou.. theyre nasty to drive and they wont like 4wd applications. save extra coin and go for a twin plate :(

the stock cams n gears r good for well over 320kw.... if u dont think so, look around the dyno thread and see how many ppl r makin close to 400awkw with stock items :)

Well arnt you great. BTW...320Kw @15psi. You don't need to run all the gear to make the numbers but it makes them easier at lower boost and the power comes on a bit earlier and is smoother in response. GTR-PWR asked for advice on "320Kw and responsive" and he got mine..your entitled to give yours.

Yeah apparantley they are not that bad anyway on the GTR's, or so i have been told. But its definantley worth it anyway.

Curious as to whether an Excedy Heavy Duty clutch would be able to handle 320awk's?

My mate says that it should last at least 3 years. Would be good to get some opinions on this matter. Cheers Guys.

LOL - Excedy HD WON"T last that long. I've got one in my GTR, only done about 2,000km and it slips if I launch hard. car was last dyno'd at 300rwkw when running lower boost, so i don't think they will handle it.

anything but a twin plate will slip on a 4wd launch.. its too much stress for a clutch...

as for Keets... 15psi all depends on turbos. i could run a massive turbo and make 400kw on 10psi.. that doesnt mean my gears r efficent.. just means the turbo flows a shitload of air @ the boost

my turbos were only hi flows.. not garrett 2860's of any kind.

stock cams r perfect as are the stock gears.. u can play with the delivery of the power with the gears but ur only gonna move the powerband up or down.. so if u fatten ur mid section, u lose top end. simple

Edited by Bumblebee

"my turbos were only hi flows.. not garrett 2860's of any kind."

So why are you quoting the dyno numbers...Please read the original post "

2530's Vs Garrets, 320Kw and response" I answered the question.

"...u can play with the delivery of the power with the gears but ur only gonna move the powerband up or down.. so if u fatten ur mid section, u lose top end. simple"

Yes and your point is...no wait, I'm no longer interested in your point

No theyre not that undriveable.. i dunno what most ppl r on about..

ive driven quite a few cars n raced some with twin plates.. they arent that bad.. theyre like a button clutch

nothing u cant get use to.. actualyl theyre not as bad as a button because u can ride a twin plate :laugh:

im quoting dyno numbers Keets because u obviously dont know anything about the REAL abilities of the stock items.. u claim u need cams and cam gears to get that power when u simply do NOT need them

the stock units are PERFECT for that power.

I have been advise to leave the stocks all upto near 400kw's.. sure u can change the cams and gears, but do u need to?? NO.. so why waste money??

Edited by Bumblebee
anything but a twin plate will slip on a 4wd launch.. its too much stress for a clutch...

as for Keets... 15psi all depends on turbos. i could run a massive turbo and make 400kw on 10psi.. that doesnt mean my gears r efficent.. just means the turbo flows a shitload of air @ the boost

my turbos were only hi flows.. not garrett 2860's of any kind.

stock cams r perfect as are the stock gears.. u can play with the delivery of the power with the gears but ur only gonna move the powerband up or down.. so if u fatten ur mid section, u lose top end. simple

bit of misguided information here..especially above...

I raced for 3 seasons on a SINGLE PLATE clutch, dumping it at 8500-9000rpm with over 400AWKW on sticky drag strips 60'ing in the 1.5's and as low as 1'4's...never slipped once...plenty of spirited street abuse as well as countless dyno comps...probably the best performance part ive evr bought for any car ive ever built or owned.

Ive set cam gears to make gains throughout entire rev range...some parts very small gains but yes gains everywhere. None of this "rob peter to pay paul" (pardon the pun) stuff your on about.

your right about the cams though...stockers dialed in right with small low-mounts do the trick. No cams but id fit gears to them.

my 2 cents :laugh:

Edited by DiRTgarage
bit of bullsh1t here..especially above...

I raced for 3 seasons on a SINGLE PLATE clutch, dumping it at 8500-9000rpm with over 400AWKW on sticky drag strips 60'ing in the 1.5's and as low as 1'4's...never slipped once...plenty of spirited street abuse as well as countless dyno comps...probably the best performance part ive evr bought for any car ive ever built or owned.

Ive set cam gears to make gains throughout entire rev range...some parts very small gains but yes gains everywhere. None of this "rob peter to pay paul" (pardon the pun) stuff your on about.

your right about the cams though...stockers dialed in right with small low-mounts do the trick. No cams but id fit gears to them.

my 2 cents :laugh:

can i ask what single plate clutch u had? dont tell me its a Jim Berry? :) that name comes up everywhere- sorry for being off topic

can i ask what single plate clutch u had? dont tell me its a Jim Berry? :laugh: that name comes up everywhere- sorry for being off topic

ok if i cant tell you it was a Jim Berry "full monty" then i cant tell you what clutch it was... :)

lol @ full monty.. the highest rated single plate ive ever seen was a 500hp unit...

from exedy.. hks one is rated lower and so is almost everyone elses..

give us details of this clutch champ.. otherwise.. ur talkin shit :laugh:

Very interesting clutch.. although a few ppl have destroyed the clutch while rev dumpin??

still thou, sounds like an awesome clutch.. i did say most singles

theres bound to be some insane singles out there.. but i didnt think so cheap :laugh:

Im confused whats the name of this Single Plated Clutch which is capable of holding 500hp?

I will do a search in the drivetrain section, just need to name and model number.. cheers.

If its cheap and can hold that kind over power then i will look into grabbing one myself.. Cheers Guys.

Just do a search for Jim Berry, he makes awesome clutches. I used 1 for about 8mths before my flywheel smashed but it was the best clutch ive ever used in my life. Not a hint of slip, not too heavy and can be daily driven without driving around looking like a kangaroo.

My next clutch however will be a twin plate (probably a Nismo super coppermix).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...