Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If i install it and still want to play on Battle.net am i able to?

Is it just a different exacutable?

So eg "eastersun.exe" and "diablo2.exe"?

yeh man its creates a different folder. if u want to play on battle.net just run diablo2 with out the mod. if you are unsure just back up the folder :D

too bad blizzard will stall the release of D3... if they release the lich king, starcraft 3 and D3 at the same time they will lose sales IMO. i dont think we'll see D3 til mid/late next year :whistling:

Edited by joeleo87
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225918-diablo-3/page/2/#findComment-3988320
Share on other sites

yeh man its creates a different folder. if u want to play on battle.net just run diablo2 with out the mod. if you are unsure just back up the folder :D

too bad blizzard will stall the release of D3... if they release the lich king, starcraft 3 and D3 at the same time they will lose sales IMO. i dont think we'll see D3 til mid/late next year :D

Sweet!

Grabbed it last night but didnt install

Will do that tonight.

Thanks for the info.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225918-diablo-3/page/2/#findComment-3989078
Share on other sites

D3 looks awesome. I was a D2 addict so ill take a guess and say ill be a D3 addict. I like the click click click action... more to do instead of wow where 1 click n then some keyboard moves. Im guessing D3 wont be out for 2 years. SC2 will come out next year and then D3 the year after.

I dont think you will need a great machine to run D3 because Blizzard are known to bring out games for the majority of computer players, not the minority with awesome machines.

Either way i cant wait.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225918-diablo-3/page/2/#findComment-3991105
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 3 months later...
So when's this ment to be coming out?

it was quoted for D3 to be Fall 2009. which is about November? in Aus :(

i still play D2 at times... WoW is okay.. i'm thinking the longevity of WoW... coupled with the amazing "hack and slash" of diablo will make me take leave from work for a month of heavy gaming on D3. :cool:

i am rather excited for "stargate worlds" MMORPG. i was always a big stargate fan :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225918-diablo-3/page/2/#findComment-4645241
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

I must say, I never played any of the Diablo Games.

I really don't know why. I love RPG's, but I was stuck playing something else, or my PC at the time was to f**king lame...

Maybe I should get in and have a bash of the old ones before D3 comes out. Looks awesome

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225918-diablo-3/page/2/#findComment-5106954
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

d3 is expected to come out in 2011, blizzard is brining out starcraft 2 soon so obviously blizzard arnt going to release the 2 best games they have at the same time...so dont expect d3 for a while :yes: just got bak into d2 with the brothers on lan lol love that game cant wait for d3, might just get star craft 2 for the time being, also looks good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225918-diablo-3/page/2/#findComment-5179008
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
D3 will be insane, pity blizzard keeps delaying it, and i swear starcraft 2 has been delayed for like 3 years now LOL

sc2 is in beta and will be out on july 27th but i agree, blizzard are the kings of game delays

i cant wait for d3.. ive played d2 so much ive bought the battlechest like 3 times and countless cdkeys haha

shattered i lost all my recent ladder characters a couple months ago when they did a ban wave, among other characters i had a fully decked out pvp light sorc with 40+ lifers they were so expensive :ermm:

still got a few thousand fg saved for when d3 comes out (forum currency on the largest d2 trading forum) lol

Edited by delljit
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225918-diablo-3/page/2/#findComment-5243725
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...