Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wher are u based and where did u put the gas tank?

hi,i,m based in Blacktown NSW ,i have fitted a 60litre tank between the rear strut towers and am currently doing a quick mileage test with it ,no difference in performance other than filling up and end of the week you can call me between 7.30 am to 5 pm on 02 9671 2199 cheers,gasguy

hi,i,m based in Blacktown NSW ,i have fitted a 60litre tank between the rear strut towers and am currently doing a quick mileage test with it ,no difference in performance other than filling up and end of the week you can call me between 7.30 am to 5 pm on 02 9671 2199 cheers,gasguy

give me a quote to do my 4.7litre V8 Jeep please.

6kw, i bet you can really feel that!

Id be interested to hear how many years you need to drive it to break even

I guy I work with has a Merc 560SEL 89 model. Car is in now getting converted to gas. Cost is $3000, the government rebates $2000 at the moment. So you are out of pocket $1000.

Unleaded in QLD is $1.50, gas is $0.70 so that saves you $0.80 per litre

He uses currently 80L per week of unleaded, which will save him approx $64 per week. So he will get his $1000 back in 16 weeks!

LPG does not get the same economy as unleaded, so that will need to factored in. So it may take a bit longer to get his money back, but definitely under 6 months and worth considering

I dont think we should be so quick to poo poo the idea - hehe.. thats the 3rd poo in this thread- oh no wait now 4th . but anyways

to be honest - if I new we could convert the stagea to dual fuel - and it would end up costing $1000 then I would definately be interested. Providing the power is the same

Gasguy- did you do a before and after dyno test? that would be a really great " selling tool "

so you can put the 2 graphs up and show the torque curves and power curves etc.. then I think that would go a long way to settle peoples doubts

I dont think we should be so quick to poo poo the idea - hehe.. thats the 3rd poo in this thread- oh no wait now 4th . but anyways

to be honest - if I new we could convert the stagea to dual fuel - and it would end up costing $1000 then I would definately be interested. Providing the power is the same

Gasguy- did you do a before and after dyno test? that would be a really great " selling tool "

so you can put the 2 graphs up and show the torque curves and power curves etc.. then I think that would go a long way to settle peoples doubts

hey shonky.. there is a guy in wa who does turbo gas conversions.. hes out in jandakot and i think the name is forcefeed gas or sumthing.. anyway john has been to see him so send him a pm..

only way i would do it is to put a tyre tank in the spare wheel well.. dont want to compromise space u see..

I am going to check out the forcefeed guy. If i can get better fuel economy out of my stagea i will keep it. If i get more power i will be absolutely stoked!

In WA we get the $2k federal grant and $1k state grant so we get $3k to convert to gas. A good conversion shouldnt cost much more than that if sing a generic tank in the luggage space in the boot.

It appears this is my Stagea in this discussion. I picked it up today after comming back from Over seas.

I was i doubt at first about converting the Stag to dual fuel but to my supprise there is no power loss and drives like is on 98 ron.

To all the "poo" party, please dont knock it untill you have seen, i belive Ignorance plays a major roll in you comments.

I agree conversions are not suitable for all, however i drive the Stag over 450km per week and it is a must.

I will post up pics tomorrow :D

It appears this is my Stagea in this discussion. I picked it up today after comming back from Over seas.

I was i doubt at first about converting the Stag to dual fuel but to my supprise there is no power loss and drives like is on 98 ron.

To all the "poo" party, please dont knock it untill you have seen, i belive Ignorance plays a major roll in you comments.

I agree conversions are not suitable for all, however i drive the Stag over 450km per week and it is a must.

I will post up pics tomorrow :D

....I wondered how long it was going to be until another Stagea was converted to LPG...

Congratulations on the conversion.

My payback period was about 9 months....that was about 12 months and 20,000 klms ago.

However mine is a dedicated LPG conversion and not dual fuel as I didn't want to compromise on tune for both fuels......

I have recently been filling up on 100% Propane (105-110+ RON), same price as regular LPG, available straight out of the bowser in VIC, and this "premium LPG" is awesome to run on a turbo car if tuned properly.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...html&hl=lpg

LPG conversions for turbo RB engines have been going on for years with fantastic results.....Heard of the 9 and 10 sec quarter mile VL (RB30) Commodores???....

Good work HEctic180 for being first to do it.

I love driving the stagea and i drive around 400 - 500km per week - only thing i dont like is the fuel economy. I considered selling it due to the km i am racking up. If i can get a decent gas conversion like yours i will keep it. Just have to sort someone out in WA who knows what they are doing at a reasonable price.

Much better economy and more power - who ever doesnt like that is fkn stupid!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...