Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Hi-flow On Rb20

toffaz

By toffaz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

toffaz Contributor

toffaz

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

i have an rb20det in my s13 with a r33 hi flow turbo... it is currently running 12psi through a gfb bleed valve and when it spools up under load up a hill or something it will kind of stutter and the bov will be going crazy untill you hit around 6500rpm and it will start to pull! is it to big for the 20?

is there anyway i would be able to fix this?

it has:

Stock ECU

Stainless Split Dump Pipe

Hybrid FMIC

Custom 2.5" Intercooler Piping

2.5" Dump Back

Bosch 040

thanks in advance :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226029-r33-hi-flow-on-rb20/
Share on other sites
yld:18e Rookie

yld:18e

Posted
Posted

take your bov off and see if that will help it could be leakin... maybe search for a vac leak? or it could be coil packs, plugs or your fuel pump... check for leaks first change you plugs them borrow a good set of coilpacks if it doesn't sort it? also could be your fuel flitter long shot but they do funny things sometimes...

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

sounds like compressor surge. the turbo is developing more air at that rpm range than the engine can eat.

but without a tune you really don't know what you are dealing with. who built the hiflow?

i had an rb25hiflow on an rb20 and it was insane, 240rwkw and smooth as factory. you can tune the standard ecu to fix the problem if needed, pm me for more details if needed. cheers

toffaz Contributor

toffaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sounds like compressor surge. the turbo is developing more air at that rpm range than the engine can eat.

but without a tune you really don't know what you are dealing with. who built the hiflow?

that would be my best guess... will a re-map fix this or even a safc?

its a gfb vee-port :laugh:

oh and it dosent detonate so would be plugs or coils

toffaz Contributor

toffaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Make sure the BOV is adjusted/tensioned propperly if its an adjustable one. It might be set too weak.

took the vacuum line off the bov today n took it for a drive and its still doing it out the pod filter :P its not so bad in 2nd gear... if u gradually accelerate it will do it but if u flatten it, it will do fine n hit boost hard n wheelspin but 3rd and 4th u cant even get it to boost smoothly...

Billet Ricky Contributor

Billet Ricky

Posted
Posted

Compressor surge.

Most likely because the turbo was built for a 2.5L not 2L.

Depending on what compressor wheel has been used and how much meat is left in the inlet snout you may be able to have some port shrouding machinated into the compressor cover.

If there is not enough meat left in the snout. The snout on the factory compressor cover will need to be machined off and a bigger inlet snout machined up and put in with the port shrouding in it.

Where are you located?

Maybe take the turbo back to where you purchased it and see if they can help.

I’d say they will probably want to charge to do either option since the turbo was for a RB25 but see how you go.

If you have no luck MR Turbo Australia / Billet Turbochargers can help you out.

Regards,

Ricky.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      f**king around with the bro
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
×
×
  • Create New...