Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Hi-flow On Rb20

toffaz

By toffaz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

toffaz Contributor

toffaz

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

i have an rb20det in my s13 with a r33 hi flow turbo... it is currently running 12psi through a gfb bleed valve and when it spools up under load up a hill or something it will kind of stutter and the bov will be going crazy untill you hit around 6500rpm and it will start to pull! is it to big for the 20?

is there anyway i would be able to fix this?

it has:

Stock ECU

Stainless Split Dump Pipe

Hybrid FMIC

Custom 2.5" Intercooler Piping

2.5" Dump Back

Bosch 040

thanks in advance :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226029-r33-hi-flow-on-rb20/
Share on other sites
yld:18e Rookie

yld:18e

Posted
Posted

take your bov off and see if that will help it could be leakin... maybe search for a vac leak? or it could be coil packs, plugs or your fuel pump... check for leaks first change you plugs them borrow a good set of coilpacks if it doesn't sort it? also could be your fuel flitter long shot but they do funny things sometimes...

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

sounds like compressor surge. the turbo is developing more air at that rpm range than the engine can eat.

but without a tune you really don't know what you are dealing with. who built the hiflow?

i had an rb25hiflow on an rb20 and it was insane, 240rwkw and smooth as factory. you can tune the standard ecu to fix the problem if needed, pm me for more details if needed. cheers

toffaz Contributor

toffaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sounds like compressor surge. the turbo is developing more air at that rpm range than the engine can eat.

but without a tune you really don't know what you are dealing with. who built the hiflow?

that would be my best guess... will a re-map fix this or even a safc?

its a gfb vee-port :laugh:

oh and it dosent detonate so would be plugs or coils

toffaz Contributor

toffaz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Make sure the BOV is adjusted/tensioned propperly if its an adjustable one. It might be set too weak.

took the vacuum line off the bov today n took it for a drive and its still doing it out the pod filter :P its not so bad in 2nd gear... if u gradually accelerate it will do it but if u flatten it, it will do fine n hit boost hard n wheelspin but 3rd and 4th u cant even get it to boost smoothly...

Billet Ricky Contributor

Billet Ricky

Posted
Posted

Compressor surge.

Most likely because the turbo was built for a 2.5L not 2L.

Depending on what compressor wheel has been used and how much meat is left in the inlet snout you may be able to have some port shrouding machinated into the compressor cover.

If there is not enough meat left in the snout. The snout on the factory compressor cover will need to be machined off and a bigger inlet snout machined up and put in with the port shrouding in it.

Where are you located?

Maybe take the turbo back to where you purchased it and see if they can help.

I’d say they will probably want to charge to do either option since the turbo was for a RB25 but see how you go.

If you have no luck MR Turbo Australia / Billet Turbochargers can help you out.

Regards,

Ricky.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...