Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ay guys after finding out my cylinders have number one at 90psi and the rest at 150, looks like im in the market for a new RB.

so if you guys have had to replace your engine and know anygood places to get them, importers, reckers etc...

and what should i do besides a compression test to make sure this ones not gonna die on me in a few months.

thanks in advance

alex :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226095-rb25det-required/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If I were in your position I would have the engine rebuilt, that way you know that it is in perfect condition and will go for at least another 300,000kms (if you dont kill it before then).

When you buy a second hand engine you are always taking a risk... Its a gamble because even if the engine has good compression you dont know what has been done to it in the past and/or how many genuine kms it has done or how hard those kms have been on the engine.

Although if you want a decent second hand RB call Just Jap in Sydney. :D

a friend of mine is stripping out his rb25det R32, engine has done about 50,000kms. i need the gearbox but he wont seperate from the engine, he wants about 4k for engine/gearbox, tailshaft etc. ill see what price hed do on just the engine for you.

mang that would be good, but looking at the moment i dont have enough to do anything about it until start of next year, dirtgarage, mate i wish i had a lazy 13 grand sitting round but thats way out of my pockets range.

how much would it cost for a rebuild, i have seen some 25s 3nd hand go from anywhare from 1500 to 2000, how much would it cost for a mech to do a straight swap.

mang that would be good, but looking at the moment i dont have enough to do anything about it until start of next year, dirtgarage, mate i wish i had a lazy 13 grand sitting round but thats way out of my pockets range.

how much would it cost for a rebuild, i have seen some 25s 3nd hand go from anywhare from 1500 to 2000, how much would it cost for a mech to do a straight swap.

No good my friend, Drive her nicely and she will last a bit longer, No more 7000rpm shifts...

mang that would be good, but looking at the moment i dont have enough to do anything about it until start of next year, dirtgarage, mate i wish i had a lazy 13 grand sitting round but thats way out of my pockets range.

how much would it cost for a rebuild, i have seen some 25s 3nd hand go from anywhare from 1500 to 2000, how much would it cost for a mech to do a straight swap.

rebuilt to my standards will cost you around $3600-$3900 plus parts, but will be good for up to 400KW (provided you buy the right bits for it)

Edited by DiRTgarage

keith, lol, im granny driving, if i rev to hard she blows smoke like a preverbial but if gentle is kinda ok

is that 400 rwkw, what parts would i look at???, is 3600-$3900 just the labor, remove, rebuild & and install (does that come with a good dyno tune???

keith, lol, im granny driving, if i rev to hard she blows smoke like a preverbial but if gentle is kinda ok

is that 400 rwkw, what parts would i look at???, is 3600-$3900 just the labor, remove, rebuild & and install (does that come with a good dyno tune???

$3600-$3900 is for strip down, clean, measure, ALL machining shop expenses, full engine balancing, another clean, measure, dummy assembly, clearances rechecked, full assembly and engine paint.

another $1500 to R & R the engine...no dyno.

quality costs $$

Edited by DiRTgarage

Do the r and r your self. It will save you money to put into other things. (more money more reliable power)

Come out to the next hill climb and have a word to me, Just taken an rb26 out, much more work than a 25.

BTW DIRT, what comes in the rebuild for 3.6+?

Do the r and r your self. It will save you money to put into other things. (more money more reliable power)

Come out to the next hill climb and have a word to me, Just taken an rb26 out, much more work than a 25.

BTW DIRT, what comes in the rebuild for 3.6+?

that would be great mate whens the next one on?? yeah i was thinking of doing things myself but my skills/knowledge set it limited, haha should drop a 26 in mine and be done with it, lol

at the end of the day i dont want massive power figures i want an engine/car that i know no matter how hard i drive it (besides whipping off road) i cant do any harm to it

The next hill climb is on the 13th. i have put in my entry so i will be attending.

Plus depending on what parts dirtgarage/ others have up for rebuild i might have some useful stuff left over from mine.

Rods (would need to be crack tested). and some other stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...