Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i did a bit more reading on the gt rs 240/260 is quite common on stock internals, and added benifit of straight bolt on. I reckon to do the internals with that kit, then bolt on a gtrs, and play with that and pay it off and look at investing after that.

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah your right there, i think it would be more appropriate if i aim at the strong and safe 280 mark. i should be able to get that off a gtrs as well, and use the stock planum, would considure cut and plug for a forward facing planum cut some piping out to increase response.hmmmm so many options.

have already got

new

**oil pump,

**new water pump,

**upgraded clutch

whats the difference between main and head studs

what are you reffering to with regard to these pieces

**new bearings,

**a solid lifter conversion

Just get an aftermarket forward facing plenum, it would be almost as cheap as the cut and shut, and 10000 times better, maybe even more :D

Just get an aftermarket forward facing plenum, it would be almost as cheap as the cut and shut, and 10000 times better, maybe even more :D

Mine works awesome thankyou very much!!!

Plus, an aftermarket computer is needed for either anyways, I havnt seen that posted on here yet.?

have a microtech lt12, so its capable of covering that, one of the staff members on our open wheelers team hates them and is trying to convince me to get a motec, and i might be able to organise a motec with him, he tunes some of the toyota's that do the nurburgring ring usesing the motec, so yeah thats looking like an option while im in canberra.

hmmmmm

If you are fitting an N1 RB26 oil pump you need to get the crank machined and a larger oil pump drive fitted (crank collar) as the standard oil pump drive on an RB25 is ~1/2 the length of the R33/34 RB26 ones. the easiest way to do that is just take it out to pro engines in qbn and get them to do it.

pro engines has the reputation, and I know of a few guys that have had work done there and are happy with it, I'd say spend yor $$$ where you can get the right job done.

yeah the more i have asked around and people have some really good opnions of them so thats good to know.

Their phone number doesn't seem to work, anyone have another one?

Joe's Mobile Number (skyline Performance) is 0412369176

he's a great guy, and looks after his customers, and dose great prices on rebuilds. he will be rebuilding mine in about a month or so.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...