Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Any luck on this Cubes?

Do you have a link to Tighe cams also? Am trying to sort some out at the moment. 272 degree with 9.5 lift can apparently be done on a regrind, whilst Kelfords who build some impressive cams suggest welding to a camshaft isnt at all good.

yeah they turned out good.

We haven't played with the cam gears as it wasn't able to hold more than 17psi up top.

The same thing occurred before the cams so I'm putting it down to either the FMIC with its 2" piping and or a weak actuator that is quite lazy. Most likely the later.

Mine haven't been built up as they were GTR sticks. The Rb25 sticks apparently do have to be built up.

It went on to make.

3k - forget? :O

3.5k - 200rwkw

4k - 256rwkw

5k - 288rwkw

6k - 302rwkw

7k - 290rwkw

Its awesome to drive. Third gear at 60km/h slightly flick the brake and its up making 19psi and then storms off quite a strange feeling with the motor not reving but your being sunk in to the seat hard.

I was a little off with my overlap calcs. Its actually running around 39degree's overlap so not all that good for top end 'apparently'.

I'll get it on the dyno once I fit an 18psi actuator and new fmic with 2.5" piping and play with the cam gears to shift peak power ~500rpm higher and then stretch its legs slightly to ~7300rpm.

Fuel economy has slightly improved; we spent a little more time on the accelerator injection time and tweaked the afr's.

Sounds really good mate.

GTR cams people here still want 300+ for so i think a set of billets from Greenline etc may eventually work out cheaper by the time they get the regrind treatment.

My thing should be going in the next 3 or so weeks so will consider a new cam come full tune time.

Couldnt find an rbcam on tighe cams website.

Have you heard anything re weld on tips being dodgy at all?

Will look forward to seeing the results. Lith mentioned to me a while back you were having a few issues since the cam install. Dont think that 2" piping could help, not the actuator.

Edited by SirRacer

Bugger.. I have seen a few sets go for 60-100. I picked mine up for 60.

Ebay is another place to look.

Tighe haven't updated their website for a bit by the looks so chances are it won't be there.

Not sure exactly what the problem is.. FMIC is first so I'll know soon enough :(

If not done right building up the cam can be dodgy. Not sure.. If you can't grab a reasonably priced set of gtr cams then by all means grab a set of cams from nengun. :)

$300 for a pair of stock cams is dreaming. What are they useful for lol.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

just a quick question.

i have a R32 rb25de head with no cams and was thinking of getting the following:

2202-RN170, IN (256deg) (Lift 8.8) (valve timing 110)

2202-RN175, EX (264deg) (Lift 9.0) (valve timing 115)

what are your ideas on how these will go on a RB30/25 build

  • 2 months later...

hey guys

instead of starting another cam choice thread what are you opinions of different sized inlet and exhaust cams.

looking at the HKS step 2 cams. will only be reving to 7k but will have an 8k limiter for power runs and drags.

however car will be more of a daily, just want that phat idol...

was first going to go with the 272 10.2 inlet and a 280 10.20 but am thinking the 280 will be bring power on too late. or should i stick with both at 272 10.2??

turbo will be a gt35r at 1.5bar undecided rear housing.

obviusly springs will be upgraded to suit but will the head need modifing to drop these bad boys in.

I believe there is an 806C grind. Not sure on its specifics but thats where it ends.

More than a 265 duration and 9mm lift and you need valve springs, you'll need to machine the buckets.

Rip the head off spend $300 on a set of valve springs, machine the buckets and drop in a set of 10.5mm lift cams. :(

----

I probably wouldn't bother regrinding a set of pon cams as you can still fetch good $$ for them s/h and then put a few hundred towards a new set imported from nengun or the likes.

A set of cams from Nengun are worth 800 odd delivered depending on brand.

Where can i get a set of valve springs for $300?

Oh and by the way, I'm using some Gibson Motorsport cams( same as the Winfield GTR). Just had them cam doctored.

At advertised duration

Inlet 256 @ 9.5mm lift

Exhaust 278 @ 9.75 mm lift

...don't tell to many people :(

Edited by BoostdR
Oh and by the way, I'm using some Gibson Motorsport cams( same as the Winfield GTR). Just had them cam doctored.

At advertised duration

Inlet 256 @ 9.5mm lift

Exhaust 278 @ 9.75 mm lift

...don't tell to many people :P

Interesting aswel they have such a large difference between duration for in and ex

Are you in Sydney? I would very much appreciate the chance to see how it goes with your turbo setup. Its the same as mine expect for cams, ive got 270 10.25 in and out :D

hey guys

instead of starting another cam choice thread what are you opinions of different sized inlet and exhaust cams.

looking at the HKS step 2 cams. will only be reving to 7k but will have an 8k limiter for power runs and drags.

however car will be more of a daily, just want that phat idol...

was first going to go with the 272 10.2 inlet and a 280 10.20 but am thinking the 280 will be bring power on too late. or should i stick with both at 272 10.2??

turbo will be a gt35r at 1.5bar undecided rear housing.

obviusly springs will be upgraded to suit but will the head need modifing to drop these bad boys in.

any opinions out there. is 280 to big for my rev limit

Interesting you guys dont go for cosworth springs, good for 12mm lift and 400USD a set so compared to 12mm capable springs from japan they're about a third of the price

the guy i get to do my cylinderhead work doesnt like the jun (cosworth) springs as they dont have much tension. his pick are some dual psi springs, second to them the supertech springs

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Awesome.. Allways been curious what cam specs they ran.

QLD Performance Springs :cool:http://www.performancesprings.com.au/

how do these springs compare to the likes of japanese brands, i.e. tomei?

...Mr 'N1GTR' - can u send the link of these cosworth springs u mentioned in this thread?

Edited by Marko R1
how do these springs compare to the likes of japanese brands, i.e. tomei?

...Mr 'N1GTR' - can u send the link of these cosworth springs u mentioned in this thread?

the psi springs (i think they are the same as the performancesprings) are rated as the bees knees in the top end springs (dual coil) by my head guy, jhh performance. its the quality of the wire used makes them good as they can happily sustain all the requirements of a high revving high load valvetrain. the daul springs arent cheap though and not really needed unless ur going to competatively race it, id look at some supertech or ferrea springs or the cheaper single coil psi spring

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...