Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Trust me Pete, the 2500's are the go, you won't be disappointed

yeah so far I'm hearing good things about the DS2500's.....just a little concerned that they might be a little hard on rotors also hearing alot about Bendix Ultimates being a bit dusty but as far as their friction co efficiency goes, they both sound a treat.

I'll reserve my judgement till a bit later I think.

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I brought the Lucas TRW's, haven't had a chance to put them in yet tho. Apparently they are a good pad for a little track work and not as harsh on the rotars as others. Cost was $60 each front and rear.

I've heard good things about the TRW's also, cheap as chips too but I can't comment as I've never used them. Yeah the 2500's might be a little harsher on rotors but in my books the extra stopping power is nice if you need it in an emergency. It's like everything with a car, can't have the best of everything, exceptions must be made sadly :sick:

Project mu HC+. Cant recommend them highly enough. Good braking even when not warmed up, slight brake dust and noise though.

Ryan

Project mu do a good street pad called a B-Spec for street & light track work.......do the HC+ eat rotors Ryan because they have a very high friction rate (over .6) and 800 degrees....they'd have to be pretty noisy for street....any thoughts?

Pete, perhaps consult the manufacturer of your brake rotors to find a pad that will perform well with them - as you mention you don't want something that will chew your rotors too much - the pads are there to be the sacrificial material.

I've also heard great things about the Ferodo DS and TS series pads, and the only thing negative you tend to hear about Ultimates is "DUSTY!".

I've heard good things about EBC Greenstuff, although the Ferodos are supposed to behave similarly and be kinder to rotors.

Also the Redstuff are allegedly quite harsh on rotors but a great grabber once warm.

Please note all of the above is merely second hand information gained by word of mouth from other parties experiences with the products - I've not tested any of them.

EBC have just relaunched there range recently and changed there pads quite a bit from what they used to be. They have done this to compete with the ferodo DS2500 and DS3000.

I am getting some slotted RDA rotors and EBC redstuff pads for my car shortly.

Pete my mate Brad who used to work at ACS uses Hawk pads in his Saloon race car, he got given Bendix race pads before but wasnt as good apparently, so he is back on the Hawks!!

yeah I'm hearing very good things so far about the Hawke HPS pads for street......Hawke HP-Plus are very good too from what I'm hearing but might be abit tuff on rotors.

I'm not sure whether they do a HPS for the Brembo caliper though. Even the QFM A1RM (QLD Friction Materials) pads which appear to be on a par with the Hawke HPS (and on the Group Buy section), want the old Brembo pads to re use the backing plates with their material.

I'm trying to find a happy medium between heat range and friction co efficiency......I used to wrongly think awhile ago that the friction rate of a pad would simultaneously increase as the heat range increased. I also used to wrongly believe that a track pad would never have the same cold bite as a street pad.....not true in all cases.

So going by that theory, why don't we all find a suitable track pad for our street cars if some of them bite well from cold and don't suffer fade at very high temps??.......because they would eat our rotors, we would need earplugs and we would choke in the dust.

Up until recently I was looking at ceramic pads due to the almost zero dust & noise factor, but I dont think they would bite as well as the organics or semi metallics......hence why I'm trying to find a happy medium between rotor wear, dust, bite & long lasting.

My GTR will probably be 85% street use with the ocassional hills run & track day.

I'm definitely no expert in compound compositions so hopefully we can get more input into this thread..........there's already some good info gathering.

I have used hawk pads on my old 32... great bite, excellent on the track, but crap when cold.

Bendix ultimates = waste of money. No good and really dusty.

Have been told from many sources to go with green stuff which is what will be happenning with my GTR in a few weeks along with braided lines and dot 5-6 fluid.

This is a result of boiling my fluid and losing brakes at the last track day.

I have used hawk pads on my old 32... great bite, excellent on the track, but crap when cold. Do you recall which Hawkes you used?

Bendix ultimates = waste of money. No good and really dusty. They're supposed to bite well but yeah, everyone is telling me they're very dusty.

Have been told from many sources to go with green stuff which is what will be happenning with my GTR in a few weeks along with braided lines and dot 5-6 fluid.

This is a result of boiling my fluid and losing brakes at the last track day.

Just had a quick squiz at the various pads peeps are recommending with the Hawkes & Ferodo DS2500's being favoured by those in the know.

Greenstuff seems to be a popular choice too so I did a bit of a search on their specs. For mainly street use I'd want a pad thats rated up to 450 - 500 degrees with .45 - .50 friction rate. For Malalla I'd want up to a 600 degree pad but with similar friction rate. Pads rated up to 800 degrees are going to be useless on the street and I love my rotors too much.

The Greenstuff seems to be rated up to 650 degrees and has a friction rate of .46 ........almost perfect for what I need. Unusually enough though they appear to be a Kevlar pad which tells me they will be expensive.

Has anyone got a contact for these pads ie. "mates rates" and does anyone have any info on the DS2500's.

yeah some good stuff on there Steve.....even SK gets in on the act.

I just got thru searching info on the EBC pads & the manufacturers themselves recommend that you dont use Greenstuff for anything over 200hp but instead use the Redstuff 3000 series.......Yellowstuff & Bluestuff are pretty much track only.

EBC Brakes

Here is this years record holder on a particular section of the Targa using Yellowstuff:

I brought the Lucas TRW's, haven't had a chance to put them in yet tho. Apparently they are a good pad for a little track work and not as harsh on the rotars as others. Cost was $60 each front and rear.

luke, do you know if your craig can get cheap rotors? might see you on the weekend anyway if you down at the workshop :stupid:

oh and if i could afford or at least justify me spending anymore cash on my stupid car then id go project MU HC+ again. they lasted the longest for a mix of street and track work between the 4 or 5 different break pads i used

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...