Jump to content
SAU Community

3 Piece Rims, What Is The Best Way To Color Them?

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

I am just about to have my car repainted and am going a color change. so my wheels will be painted to suit the car.

They are 3 piece an inner and outer and a centre. they are held together with about 60 bolts per wheel and i just had a tyre refitted and they are siliconed together as a seal. I would prefer to hve them powdercoated but am not sure if the silicone will be ok to be coated. what sort of tempratures in powdercoating baked on at?

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Powder coat is baked on at about 200-250C

If you are coating the center and lip then leaving them whole will be ok; just remove the tyres, valves, and weights.

If you just want the centers coated then you'll need to split the rims and remove the center.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

depends on the 3 piece, if its a sandwiched 3 piece (most non racing wheels) which are outer half, then centre, then inner half then you'll have to bust em apart... racing 3 pieces (VS-XX, Miester, some BBS etc) are centre, then the two halves with the centre bolted to the outside of the rim, these you can get away with not having to split the rims, just unbolt the centre.

either way best to get it done at a mag wheel repair shop (not a tyre shop) as they'll be able to torque the bolts up precisely and so on.

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the rims are 9 and 10"

they are bee-R and are not sandwich fit. so i should be able to take the center out without having to split the rim.

hmmm guess i have to decide wither to leave the lip polished or coated. here i go hunting for some pics of wheels :D

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted
taking em apart is no prob :banana: I have air tools and FWRRT FWRRRRT! and they will be apart.

from memory wheel center bolts have to be hand torqued.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...