Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am just about to have my car repainted and am going a color change. so my wheels will be painted to suit the car.

They are 3 piece an inner and outer and a centre. they are held together with about 60 bolts per wheel and i just had a tyre refitted and they are siliconed together as a seal. I would prefer to hve them powdercoated but am not sure if the silicone will be ok to be coated. what sort of tempratures in powdercoating baked on at?

Powder coat is baked on at about 200-250C

If you are coating the center and lip then leaving them whole will be ok; just remove the tyres, valves, and weights.

If you just want the centers coated then you'll need to split the rims and remove the center.

depends on the 3 piece, if its a sandwiched 3 piece (most non racing wheels) which are outer half, then centre, then inner half then you'll have to bust em apart... racing 3 pieces (VS-XX, Miester, some BBS etc) are centre, then the two halves with the centre bolted to the outside of the rim, these you can get away with not having to split the rims, just unbolt the centre.

either way best to get it done at a mag wheel repair shop (not a tyre shop) as they'll be able to torque the bolts up precisely and so on.

the rims are 9 and 10"

they are bee-R and are not sandwich fit. so i should be able to take the center out without having to split the rim.

hmmm guess i have to decide wither to leave the lip polished or coated. here i go hunting for some pics of wheels :D

taking em apart is no prob :banana: I have air tools and FWRRT FWRRRRT! and they will be apart.

from memory wheel center bolts have to be hand torqued.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just get rid of the orignal low impedance injectors, replace with modern high impedance injectors, and you won't need the resistors. Wire direct, as per any other engine.
    • Tao, we're not talking about the ECU boost ref. We're talking about the wastegate signal source.
    • Flapping up and down is a consequence of the varying pull on the belt. When the engine speed is suddenly increased, the tension in the belt increases too. When that engine accel changes to decel, the tension is reduced and turns up as a little extra length of beltes between the pulling and dragging pulleys. That extra length flaps up, then down. There's all sorts of other harmonic stuff going on too.
    • hello ladies and gentlemen so i’ve swapped a rb26dett into my r33 gtst and ive come across many speed bumps but its nearly over what im having issues with is the injector resistor box that are normally on the RB26 fuse box but im still using my rb25 fuse box and as a result my injectors aren’t getting power and is the last thing i need to figure out so the car can start. can anyone help me out on where i can find a wiring diagram for the rb26 harness to see where the injectors are supposed to receive power 
    • The boost pressure at the compressor cover will be higher than at inlet manifold. lets say, trying to hold 20 psi flat at 7000 RPM. If your wastegate opens at 20 psi measured at the compressor cover, the engine may only be seeing 16 psi. Your base pressure reading at engine would be 20psi by 4K and 16psi by 7K while your MAP at compressor housing still reads 20psi at 7K. For this reason your ECU's MAP source is never on the compressor cover. This difference isn't a major concern if you're using an electronic boost controller (EBC).
×
×
  • Create New...