Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...

hey rsx

just looking at your site, love the ironmask

how good does the rb20 go, looks like u runnin no cooler

as for those jap rims....i got no idea

would have to contact someone on that r30.co.jp site or sumthin

and see where they get their rims from

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22677-r30-skylines/#findComment-546959
Share on other sites

not my site, pictures are mine through, it goes very well those pictures are about 6 months old, i'm running a hybrid monster cooler now(icey).

no one has been able to help here in oz and one or to in jp. looks like i'll get some (not so legal) stud pattern changing spacers from JMS, they seem to think you can get away with them???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22677-r30-skylines/#findComment-546993
Share on other sites

Hi,

Just bought a '81 HR30 L20E/5 speed. Chassis no. in the low twenty thousand, looks like a DR30.

Have a bid on an internet auction for a FJ20 with weber sidedrafts, thinking very seriously about improving the brakes & suspension, club racing it till the L20 expires, then transplanting the FJ.

Need all the suspension & brakes info. you guys have.

Cheers

Russ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22677-r30-skylines/#findComment-548304
Share on other sites

im drivin a 85 R30, silver jap import Ti mint condition 190 000km, bugger the round taillights were taken off before it got to aus. im looking for a set in southern aus if anyone has any.

closely beat a VP commodore in a drag to 100km-only thing his was auto- the old skys are still sweet to drive.

im looking at getting a set of extractors+pod, are they worth the $$

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22677-r30-skylines/#findComment-549495
Share on other sites

http://au.geocities.com/timsmr30/

this is the link to the web site but its under construction at the moment so all help is needed by the real creator, this is not my web site so i carn't take the credit for it all the praise goes to CYRIUS thanks to him!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22677-r30-skylines/#findComment-551249
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...