Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 221
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

BOOSTD,

correct, 45lbs/min would give your approx. value of 405-410bhp, although, this is not to be confused with rear wheel hp.

therefore, 405hp (302kw) at the flywheel would roughly work out to ~250kw at the wheels after power loss through the drive line.

so again, you are running your turbo at 105,700 rpm and 55% efficiency.

The blue line is with my with my sealed Air box, which also had a 3" cold air feed. Mik said it would make more power without it! I disagreed......yep I was wrong 9rwkw increase without it up top and power every where else.

I did all of the tuning myself on the road with a narrow band sensor. You can see at around 140kph(~max torque) the extra fuel that is needed to keep pinging under control. Also tuned on the rich side 11.5- 11.8:1.--> More power to be had....Water injection is my next project.

  • 3 months later...

All that info lost!!!!

Anyway for those who we visiting this threat....latest mods

exhaust 53.5mm

Comp has a groove machined in for surge reduction.

Also HKS wastegate has arrived

Has mad e before these mods 266rwkw Aim 280rwkw

Photos of latest mods to come

hmmmn ok so I can't load up any files...the server is giving me errors the length of my arm

so, i have a rb20 with fmic, exhaust, boost controller, fuel pump and regulator.. i take my rb25 turbo to a turbo place and say hi i want a a to4 v trim comp wheel in place of the std one.. and the turbo snout machined/bored/what ever ya wanna call it out to 53mm.. then i bolt this turbo on and make 250rwkw at round 1bar boost simple as that? bearing in mind ill have to get injectors and remap and a new air flow meter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...