Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can any1 help me???

I'm new to the world of imports, as in, I finally got one on the road last week! Lovin' it!

But I need advice. My diff oil needs changing, bad, checked it on the weekend and it's black! I was wondering what's a good lsd diff oil to stick in a 2-way? Is there different sorts viscocities (thicknesses) or is there just a standard one?

Also, does any1 know where I can buy some new diff bushes for the rear? I've heard there's all different sorts. Instead of getting standard ones, what sort should I get, nolathane, adjustable, etc...

Cheers Guys! :D

P.S. Sorry bout sounding so retarded and having no clue, I come from a commodore background.... Lets not talk about that!!! haha.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227231-a-little-help-please/
Share on other sites

best bet is go see your local imports friendly workshop mate - they could give you all the answers in a second

Thanks Nightcrawler. Anyone that you can recommend off the top of your head around the North east area? Coz I dont want to ask a back yarder. :P

Morpowa or Tilbrooks are your best bet - just be sure if you get them to work on your car, you get a FIXED quote and make explicitly sure if they come across any further work that needs doing, they check with you and quote before doing it.

Both good workshops, but I have been burnt by both in the past.

Almost everyone on here will tell you go to BoostWorx at Panorama - yes it is a little way, but well worth the trip. I am taking my car there shortly for a motor rebuild/freshen up.

... I was wondering what's a good lsd diff oil to stick in a 2-way? Is there different sorts viscocities (thicknesses) or is there just a standard one?

You'll need an axle oil with a friction modifier additive, this is to stop/ reduce chatter associated with lsd's. Most good synthetic ones come pre-mixed with the correct dosage but, ya can buy the additive separate (eg. Redline). Some recommended ones - Castrol SAF-XA 80W, Penrite SIN 80W & Kaaz Power train (haven't tried this one yet though). A 2ltr bottle should be ample to fill her up.

Also, does any1 know where I can buy some new diff bushes for the rear? I've heard there's all different sorts. Instead of getting standard ones, what sort should I get, nolathane, adjustable, etc...

Do you mean replacing the rear cradle bushes themseleves (not adjustable) or putting in pineapple bushes (ie. squashes the subframe bushes & allows for different lift/squat settings)?

Thanks so much pkblade!

I was checking out the kaaz website and it said "DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC BASE OIL ON KAAZ LSD. Kaaz LSD may not function smoothly." I don't know what brand 2-way I have. But I thought it was weird that they said NOT to use synthetic. Isn't synthetic better?

Cheers also for letting me know how much it takes!

Do you mean replacing the rear cradle bushes themseleves (not adjustable) or putting in pineapple bushes (ie. squashes the subframe bushes & allows for different lift/squat settings)?

Ummm..... Not sure, I think the cradle bushes?????. I've only had the car for a week and when dumping the clutch (had to test it out :D ) it's tramping (diff bouncing) a lot. Not sure which bushes they are, I've just been told that it's my rear bushes.

Haven't checked yet, haven't had time.

Thanks again, appreciate the help!

Thanks so much pkblade!

I was checking out the kaaz website and it said "DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC BASE OIL ON KAAZ LSD. Kaaz LSD may not function smoothly." I don't know what brand 2-way I have. But I thought it was weird that they said NOT to use synthetic. Isn't synthetic better?

No probs, that is true but the Kaaz site failed to mention is that you can still use synthetic oils provided it's mixed with a lsd friction modifier additive (this stops the 'chatter'). It will state on the back of the bottles if it’s suitable for a lsd or it contains the appropriate additive. Also, with the full synthetics w/additive you’ll have the benefit of extended drain intervals over the Kaaz oil, which, I just read recommends changing every <8,000kms :(.

Ummm..... Not sure, I think the cradle bushes?????. I've only had the car for a week and when dumping the clutch (had to test it out ;) ) it's tramping (diff bouncing) a lot. Not sure which bushes they are, I've just been told that it's my rear bushes.

Haven't checked yet, haven't had time.

Axle tramp & soft bushes is a common problem with our aging cars. You can replace the following rear bushes to try eliminate it:

* a) Rear subframe bushes (blue Noltecs pictured), OR b) pineapples (yellow)/ alloy (3rd pic) cradle bushes - this 2nd option is a band-aid solution but, it's quicker and allows you to change the angle of the subframe (ie. anti-squat/ drift/ all-round performance settings). &/or

* Diff bushes (red bushes pictured)

post-11982-1215656093_thumb.jpg post-11982-1215656115_thumb.jpg post-11982-1215656134_thumb.jpg

post-11982-1215656163_thumb.jpg

No probs, that is true but the Kaaz site failed to mention is that you can still use synthetic oils provided it's mixed with a lsd friction modifier additive (this stops the 'chatter'). It will state on the back of the bottles if it's suitable for a lsd or it contains the appropriate additive. Also, with the full synthetics w/additive you'll have the benefit of extended drain intervals over the Kaaz oil, which, I just read recommends changing every <8,000kms :P .

Ahhh. Fair nuf. Now it makes sense.

Axle tramp & soft bushes is a common problem with our aging cars. You can replace the following rear bushes to try eliminate it:

* a) Rear subframe bushes (blue Noltecs pictured), OR b) pineapples (yellow)/ alloy (3rd pic) cradle bushes - this 2nd option is a band-aid solution but, it's quicker and allows you to change the angle of the subframe (ie. anti-squat/ drift/ all-round performance settings). &/or

* Diff bushes (red bushes pictured)

Thanks for that man, cheers heaps for the pics too!

I owe u 1!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...