Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you could get some pictures of the light shining against a wall a few meters away, that'll give people an idea of what to expect with their cut off line when installing HID globes.

If you could get some pictures of the light shining against a wall a few meters away, that'll give people an idea of what to expect with their cut off line when installing HID globes.

Wont make much difference because the beam of the HID really depends on how you aimed your headlights, if your headlights are off your results will vary from ours.

If you could get some pictures of the light shining against a wall a few meters away, that'll give people an idea of what to expect with their cut off line when installing HID globes.

yes, and glare which is a big no-no with HID into Xenon fitments...

The person that owns the Pajero needs to paint the headlight side of the bullbar matt black to stop the light reflection, many 4WD owners do this. Something you could possibly do as part of your fitting service.........................

The person that owns the Pajero needs to paint the headlight side of the bullbar matt black to stop the light reflection, many 4WD owners do this. Something you could possibly do as part of your fitting service.........................

It would make more sense if the car owners used their own initiative - regardless of the HID fitment or not. I think they're based in Canada too..

I reckon get the Pajero out and get some shots of the light beams down a long, flat, straight road.

Interested nonetheless.

  • 2 weeks later...
i bet they don't look anything like this

gallery_1486_103_217836.jpg

Actually they could and they do, if you aim them properly.... glare has nothing to do with the product it has to do with your headlight and how well you aim that. As mentioned many times our HID are made with a cut off and when aimed properly the results are very nice. Our products surpass DOT, SAE and ISO9001 testing here in America. THe glare you see are just the angles that are taken, I bet if you took a pic head on at your car there would be glare in the pic unless you dial it down in photoshop.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...