Jump to content
SAU Community

Power For Skyline R34 Gtt Auto

TrentR34

By TrentR34,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

TrentR34 Explorer

TrentR34

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys

I got some stuff done to my skyline during the week. FMIC, 3" Cat back zorst, High Flow Cat, 3" Dump pipe,Bigger fuel pump, Apexi air induction, Apexi Digital boost controller and then I got the Nistune to 0.9 bar of boost. I was reading in some old topics that people with same car (R34 gtt auto) same stuff done to there car and they were getting 173wrkw at stock boost. And at 0.9bar of boost I got 158wrkw. Is this the power you would expect from a R34 gtt auto?

Trent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227476-power-for-skyline-r34-gtt-auto/
Share on other sites
rice boy Collaborator

rice boy

Posted
Posted (edited)
Yes the car was tuned yesturday by Hyperdrive. They used Nistune to remap the ecu.

They were saying that it was the first R34 there to use the software.

hmmmm..

doesn't sound right..

not 158

hey sell that car and buy mine. :whistling:

Edited by rice boy
Levi_ Proficient

Levi_

Posted
Posted

Does sound a little low, though Hyperdrive do seem to have a reasonably accurate dyno (as in it tends to be lower than some) but that wouldn't be that much of a factor.

My manual R33 GTS25t managed 190rwkw with similar mods (though my boost curve isn't great).

Post up your dyno sheets and maybe we can figure it out.

DRFT31 Experienced

DRFT31

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi mate,

I have a 1998 nissan skyline gt-t auto sedan, mods are fmic, turbo back exhuast 3inch, greedy electronic boost controller, k&n pod filter. Car on 10.5psi made 189.5kw, and stock boost which was 8psi made 183.3kw. Mind you this is with std fuel pump and std comp. This is the safest level to boost a 34 running a stock ecu. As if you go past the 12psi mark they usually start to cut out thats how the std ecu's are designed. Your figures don't seem right, i would be expecting a little bit more power. Post the dyno sheet up if possible. Hope everything goes well

Cheers.

Edited by DRFT31
TrentR34 Explorer

TrentR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I would post a picture of the dyno run but last night when I was at a mates house, I was about to leave so I started the car to warm it up then and it was running for about a min then it just turned off. So I tryed to turn it back on but it wouldn't start, so I waited for about 15min came back the car started for about 30sec's this time and I couldn't get it started again so. wtf :) . So now the car is stuck at my mates house and I will need to take it back to Hyper Drive to fix it. O yeh and the Dyno Sheets are in the car so I can't get them.

Levi_ Proficient

Levi_

Posted
Posted
Hi mate,

I have a 1998 nissan skyline gt-t auto sedan, mods are fmic, turbo back exhuast 3inch, greedy electronic boost controller, k&n pod filter. Car on 10.5psi made 189.5kw, and stock boost which was 8psi made 183.3kw. Mind you this is with std fuel pump and std comp. This is the safest level to boost a 34 running a stock ecu. As if you go past the 12psi mark they usually start to cut out thats how the std ecu's are designed. Your figures don't seem right, i would be expecting a little bit more power. Post the dyno sheet up if possible. Hope everything goes well

Cheers.

Where was the dyno done for yours, I'd be suspecting that your numbers are a fraction high.

Dani Boi Grand Master

Dani Boi

Posted
Posted (edited)

I dont understand, I thought you lose around 30% of power from the fly through drivetrain in his case 158kw making thats 211hp at the fly making that around 150rwkw....

On my dyno sheet i got 270hp at the fly i dont have 270rwhp...

Edited by Dani Boi
Magic Experienced

Magic

Posted
Posted

It doesn't just depend on what mods you have bolted on, what about the condition of the engine?

And judging from what you said how the car wouldnt start properly before. I think your plugs might be fouled or ro0ted. Might be responsible for a proportion of the power loss? m2c.

thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
Posted

34 GTt's are 206kw flywheel stock (take about 7 or 8 kw for auto so ~198kw) and i dont think you would lose that much to the wheels without any mods. so with those mods its definately low. Did u get ur car from ur mates yet ??

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

You don't lose a percentage, a drivetrain will sap a certain amount of power but that doesn't increase with power.

158rwkw does seem rather low. I made 183rwkw with a similar turbo on the same dyno.

If a tuner is giving you a dyno sheet reading flywheel horsepower yet it's a chassis dyno, it's just a guess. Ask for one at the wheels.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...