Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I need some help with a translation. hopefully not too onerous. it's 90% katakana but a little bit of kanji too. The background is this is the parts list (well most of it) for the parts that went into the build for my R32 GTR. Now that the car is going to a mate of mine I would love to be able to give him my original invoice, but with the english translation of the part names. I am not too bad with katakana but I'm still very slow and it's quite labourious for me to read it all as even with a few kana refusing to come forth from my memory banks it can be hard to decipher a full word. and as far as kanji goes i'm pretty hopeless.

So, if anyone will take pity on this baka gaijin and help me I would appreciate it very much. :whistling:

Here they are:

post-3621-1215664404_thumb.jpg

post-3621-1215664416_thumb.jpg

post-3621-1215664427_thumb.jpg

post-3621-1215664439_thumb.jpg

post-3621-1215664454_thumb.jpg

Arigato gozaimasu. :)joshers.gif

Baron you cheap ass... i should be charging for this.

First sheet:

Nissan bare engine

turbo kit

engine removal / install

Trust camshafts

Trust strengthened timing belt

HKS strengthened valve springs

Trust intake / exhaust manifold

600cc Injectors

Tomei Exhaust manifold

Tomei Turbo outlet pipe

Trust suction kit ( intake? )

Trust induction kit

Z32 airflow meter including coupling

2nd sheet:

fanbelt

cooler belt

powersteering belt

turbine gasket kit

oil cooler studbolts

Oil cooler gasket kit

Start ( stud ? ) bolts C

clamp hoses

clamps

heater hose

Engine mounts

Engine mount brackets

seal

3rd sheet:

Seal

Seal

Oil return connector

Outlet oil return

Oil return gasket kit

Clamps ( for the oil return kit ? )

Master back hose

Vacuum hose

Unit Accelerator Work

Surge tank painting

Valve seals Intake and exhaust

Cylinder head removal and refitting

Valve grinding ( ? )

Head port and polish

4th Sheet :

Trust boost controller

Tomei fuel pump

NGK racing plugs

Nissan iridium plugs ( why would they go through 12 plugs..? )

APexi Power FC

Trust aluminium preset ( ? )

Trust silicone hose

Trust intake aluminium pipe set

Flywheel bolts

Oil level gauge guide

oil level gauge

Intake stud bolts

Exhaust stud bolts

Fuel hose

5th sheet: ( fark, this is the hardest for a kanji learner )

ECU current car

Mission member bush: Something to do with the gearbox cross member bushes

AF sensor attachment

Power steering pipe exchange including parts

Oil cooler removal replacement and cleaning

Intake manifold polish and blast

Throttle valves cleaned and blasted

Boost controller

Engine oil F2

Trans Oil

Front diff oil

Oil filter

LLC...?

Shot parts... ( ? )

There you go.

thanks mate, you're a legend.

the reason for 12 plugs is I think they use 6 for run in and low boost tune, then use the other 6 for high boost tuning. I think maybe different heat range.

the trust suction kit is all the intake piping (good guess).

thanks again, the new owner will be happy to get that list I'm sure. :)

oh, and just to help give you something back! LLC is coolant, short parts is probably best translated as misc. parts. just little bits and pieces that are not itemised, but add up.

I think Trust aluminium preset = Trust aluminium pulley set

valve grinding is where they cut the new 3 angle valve seat. it gives a better seal between the valve and the head. often the factory valve seats are not cut very well.

5th sheet:

ECU現車セッティング = ECU current car's settings.

Get what you pay for hey

yeah, totally.

Whoops, forgot to add the word "setting" considering i did this at 1 am and in the middle of a major presentation for the next day...

what are mates for eh? :D

expensive tune.....cheap translation. white man spend money in right place. car run nice, language run like vending machine full of 5 yen coin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...