Jump to content
SAU Community

Help- Removing Front Gaurds

chrissyo

By chrissyo,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

chrissyo Collaborator

chrissyo

Posted
Posted

Hey, ive had a search around but cant seem to find any details on this.

Basically i have lamo door hinges on the way for my R33 SII so need to remove my front side gaurds!

Ive never done it before and havent had much of a look but what do i need to undo....as in come someone tell me there 4 screws here here and here so i dont spend all day looking for the bloody things!

Also i have Jun side skirts on the car which overlap the gaurds.... they are attached with 2 screws in the wheel arch and then appear to be held on with a form of silicon(obviously)

*Is it safe to just pry the sides back enough to get the fronts off? if so what sort of silicon is used to re-attach?

LASTLY is standard masking tape safe to use on the paint work? I asked this in the lambo door thread but got limited response

Hope you guys can answer my questions...or atleast flame me for being crap and using the search and steer me in the way of some answers :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227711-help-removing-front-gaurds/
Share on other sites
PSI Parts Veteran

PSI Parts

Posted
Posted

You will have to undo the bolts at the top of the fender, and the headlight bracket too.

They are probably put on with sikaflex, which does take a fair bit to get off, so don't expect your paint to be in perfect condition afterwards. You might get the sideskirts off however you will be putting a fair bit of pressure on them so just be careful.

Normal masking tape if left on for a period of time and in the sun will dry and crack and comes almost impossible to get off by peeling it. Buy some quality 3M stuff from bunnings to be sure. Sure it might cost $15 but a respray is a hell of a lot more.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
×
×
  • Create New...