Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For those of you who don't know i just picked up series 2 1999 stagea it came with adjustable teins not quite sure which model yet but while the compliancer was doing the roady he found the rear shocks were seized and could not be adjusted the car is stupid low in the front but have been adjusted up to legal but the rear sits lower now cos of no adjustment . I was wondering anywhere in melbourne to get these repaired or can i buy tein rear only from somewhere? Any help greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228062-seized-teins/
Share on other sites

Thanx for the directions guys found a tein authorised repairer 40 km's from my house which is f$%kin rare when your in central vic, but then again bendigo is the hoon capital of Victoria more cars seized under the new hoon laws than anywhere else in vic not bad cosidering they have a population smaller than geelong. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228062-seized-teins/#findComment-4013580
Share on other sites

so the shocks aren't seized, it's just the height adjustment?

Any mechanic with half a clue and a set of C spanners should be able to sort it if he has some decent penetrating oil or a big enough hammer.

Yeah just the hieght adjustment part of it

That was my thought but APPARENTLY they will not budge obviously they dont have enough wd40 and big enough hammers in their workshop LOL :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228062-seized-teins/#findComment-4013662
Share on other sites

Well A)I cant get them out myself B) It needs to be done for roadworthy and the compliance shop cant do it. So in order for me to pass roady and get plates the height of the rear needs to be lifted since the jap owner had it stupid low and now it's seized in that position which is about 80mm of the ground.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228062-seized-teins/#findComment-4016757
Share on other sites

Well A)I cant get them out myself B) It needs to be done for roadworthy and the compliance shop cant do it. So in order for me to pass roady and get plates the height of the rear needs to be lifted since the jap owner had it stupid low and now it's seized in that position which is about 80mm of the ground.

If its just for roadworthy you've probably got more chance taking the springs out of the car and working on them.

My compliance shop was going to throw away my Ohlins coilovers (ie. >16 way adjustable and good spring rates) because they told me they were "rusted out" (sand blasting fixed the surface rust).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228062-seized-teins/#findComment-4018343
Share on other sites

im not sure which state u are in, but height adjustable shocks that allow u to lower the car below stock are against ADR's, they are not legal but u might be able to engineer them which counts for something in some states.

also not to mention the spring rates, im not 100% on this but i beleive u can only increase the spring rate by 75%, im sure someone can correct me if that figure isnt right. AFAIK the teins are a touch below this, even the aus spec ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228062-seized-teins/#findComment-4022030
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...