Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, Im jst about to purchase a pod filter kit for my r34 gtr, now i was going to go with apexi's kit but i was curious to the other brands such as hks, blitz, trust etc

My stock airbox is fine for power with an apexi panel filter but i would like a louder induction growl and i like the asthetics aspect too so im not just after wank factor.

I would like some pics of various setups if people have them and perhaps some feedback to their quality etc

here is one that i quite like; can anyone identify the brand for me?

post-4266-1216126420_thumb.jpg

is this the apexi kit?

post-4266-1216126733_thumb.jpg

thankyou in advance, i would much appreciate it.

-Johnny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228302-pod-filter-setups/
Share on other sites

Hey guys, Im jst about to purchase a pod filter kit for my r34 gtr, now i was going to go with apexi's kit but i was curious to the other brands such as hks, blitz, trust etc

My stock airbox is fine for power with an apexi panel filter but i would like a louder induction growl and i like the asthetics aspect too so im not just after wank factor.

I would like some pics of various setups if people have them and perhaps some feedback to their quality etc

here is one that i quite like; can anyone identify the brand for me?

post-4266-1216126420_thumb.jpg

is this the apexi kit?

post-4266-1216126733_thumb.jpg

thankyou in advance, i would much appreciate it.

-Johnny

Std airbox works great at dissipating reversion back through the AFM's - plus its internally bellmouthed. I wouldn't think it would be a restriciton up to about 300awkw. If your going to go the wank factor though get the domed pods -HKS I think as they flow and do the above.

Std airbox works great at dissipating reversion back through the AFM's - plus its internally bellmouthed. I wouldn't think it would be a restriciton up to about 300awkw. If your going to go the wank factor though get the domed pods -HKS I think as they flow and do the above.

380rwkw on Snowmans car (stock airbox) :laugh:

You'd loose power putting pods onto that car for sure!

Johnny

That first pic is of a set of M's - exactly the same as I have on my GTR. Fantastic induction note, great bellmount design and look great.

Good thing is you can get K&N replacement filters for them cheap. I have enslosed mine and included a perspex lid for the best performance and visual appeal.

I cannot believe i just read that myself... Im praying its some bad wording but i just cant see it...

You pop your bonnet off its primary while driving?

Man, you might have owned turbo cars, but you honestly have NFI and its pretty clear.

Your lucky the bonnet hasn't flung up and smashed your windscreen and destroyed the roof... and potentially killed YOU and other motorists when a windscreen of glass potentially hits your head.

Its gotta be one of the silliest & most dangerous things i've read on this forum in YEARS.

I can understand how your first reaction is based on emotion but im actually very upset at your response.

the bonnet will not fly open, physics will not allow it unless you are going an excessive speed.

you are seriously.. someone very f**king stupid with to much money. you dont deserve that r34. do you actually understand wat your saying?

Dont worry about some people on here, Its like they have fun putting people down.

They could of said it in a nice way, Like mate you shouldnt do that it can fly up, But no they say it to put you down dont take it to hurt.

I thought forums where in place so people can share and learn ideas.

Edited by Rav

sorry to put it so harshly dude but seriously think about it its a very very f**king dangerous thing to do and its not just your safety its everyone else around you that is at risk when you do it.

if your having over heating problems look into an oil cooler thicker radiator new engine fan or ANYTHING except popping the bonnet while driving.

lol this is pretty funny, since its on a car forum.

Johnny your personal problems are not funny but this isnt the place to talk about them and you cant expect people you have never met to be understanding.

This forum is for sharing ideas and knowledge of skylines, so if someone makes fun of your ideas or doesn't agree with them its up to you whether you want to listen to them or not.

mate it's the internet, get over it - if i posted on an electricians forum that i used a fork to get my toast out of the toaster i'd expect a similar response. if you can't handle constructive critisism and it upsets you to this degree you probably shouldn't be on here...

all I can say is haha at Johnny, man whoever told you that shit about the secondary catch being manufactured for strength etc, (it is a secondary safety mechanism and not to be used as the primary, that's why they have the primary) was probably jealous of your car and wanted you to screw it up.

There are much better ways of sorting out the cool air issue (eg remove your right hand headlight and install and aftermarket intake etc.... but I am not sure why you are having overheating problems at night.....????

I have a set of M's intake pods and they sound and look the part

PHTO0014.jpg

but if someone told me I would get better performance by putting them in a chamber of somesort then I sure as hell will.

Can someone tell me if the fibreglass verses plastic verses stainless airboxes are all on par with eachother for keeping the hot air away??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...