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I'm looking for advice as to how to prepare my V35 for my first ever track day on 2 August. What should I be doing/checking for?

-Max

all the usual stuff mate, check all fluids. I would replace the brake fluid with something like Motul RBF600 (or something like that) and get some higher temp pads if you want to be able to do more than a couple of consecutive laps. Are you going to run on street tyres or semis? A wheel alignment is always good too.

On the day make sure you take out all the junk / loose stuff in your car and that the battery is secured. Also bring a tyre pressure guage with you on the day too. What track you going to?

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I'm doing the Driver Dynamics day at Sandown, which is a brake heavy track from what I understand. They say I'll get about 20 mins per hour of driving.

My car is the 6MT with the Brembos. Is it really necessary to change brake pads/fluids? I'm not sure what pads are on there now, they are whatever came from Japan and the fluids are the ones put in during compliance.

I'm going to run on my street tyres, Hankook K104s. They only have 1000kms on them, and the wheel alignment/balance is fine.

The battery already sits in it's hole, surely it doesn't need any additional securing?

I don't keep any junk in it at all. I guess I should remove the space saver?

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I'm doing the Driver Dynamics day at Sandown, which is a brake heavy track from what I understand. They say I'll get about 20 mins per hour of driving.

My car is the 6MT with the Brembos. Is it really necessary to change brake pads/fluids? I'm not sure what pads are on there now, they are whatever came from Japan and the fluids are the ones put in during compliance.

I'm going to run on my street tyres, Hankook K104s. They only have 1000kms on them, and the wheel alignment/balance is fine.

The battery already sits in it's hole, surely it doesn't need any additional securing?

I don't keep any junk in it at all. I guess I should remove the space saver?

If you dont want to change the fluid- then once you have done a few hard laps you will get massive brake fade. It wont pull up. You can get off the track and let it cool- but that will limit your time out there. I think not even 2 laps at Wakefield and I had no brakes in my old S15 with the stock fluid.

Change the brake fluid (RBF600 $24-$30 a bottle as suggested).

Will brake pads make a difference. hell yeah.

Just depends how all out you want to go.$$$

It's not the end of the world if you dont change it though.

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Max, double check the battery is tight and secure.... don't kid with it - you've got like a massive weight of that battery swinging around if it came loose - not a good sight. the plastic cover won't stop your battery from denting up your bonnet if it gets loose when your car go over the ripple strip into the grass area...

Just double check everything mate...

If you get the hang of it for future track days, I can get you some nice RDA slotted rotors at a fraction of retail price, and you can even try some yellow pads (track only)... you know where to find me here.

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I'm not sure about the V35 set up,but in most cars it's a good idea not to use the handrake immediately when you park up after a session as the pad contact can warp the rotors, find some where flat and leave in gear.

Let the car cool down after a getting off the track, at Eastern Creek or Oran the access roads or a marshalling area does the job, just run the car up and down them for a few minutes.

Check your tyre wear and pressures after each session, and adjust your pressures to a level that work effectively under track temp conditions. Most people tend to run too higher pressures reducing the amount of tyre contact with the road which will overheat the tyre quicker.

It might sound obvious but it never hurts to check the wheel nuts before you hit the track.

Try to get a more experienced driver to show you the lines of the track by following them around a few times.

And dont' forget:

Drive it home

Drive it home

Drive it home

& have fun.

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Max,

I've taken this V35 twice, and took my auto once.

You don't really have to change the fluid if it's quite new, but definitely bleed your brakes to get rid of air bubbles. (I use RBF as well with no probs)

From a better safe than sorry perspective, I change both brake fluid and engine oil before and after a track day. Yes it's expensive, but it also puts my mind at ease.

Before my first track day in the current car, I also replaced my gearbox fluid and diff fluid. Not because there was anything wrong but because I didn't know what was in there.

How experienced on the track are you?

I've done a few track days in other cars, and can confidently say that even in stock form the V35 is a very capable car for a beginner, and if your a newbie like me, you'll struggle to push it to it's potential.

re wheel nuts, the last track day i went to, one flew off a car and smashed through the car following's window, so definitely check them.

Back on oil, I always over fill the engine oil a bit as when your going through corners hard the oil will swirl to one side so you don't want to be left short.

Put a little extra air in the tyres as well. If you have one, take a tyre gauge and keep an eye on the PSI throughout the day. Your pressure will change as the tyres heat up/cool down.

As someone said, no handbrake after you've just come off, you can warp the discs.

Check your coolant levels as well.

The V35 has a tendency to ping high in the rpm range, so run the highest octane fuel you can find. I've got Shell V-Power Racing around the corner so only use this on the track. 100 Octane goodness :-) Again expensive, but definitely worth it.

The most important thing - HAVE FUN!!

If there's an experienced driver there, use the free guidance if you can get it. Get them to show you what the car can do, and get them to shit next to you for a few laps. You'll learn more in 5 laps this way than you will in 10 track days as an amateur by yourself.

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Definitely a difference.

When you push a bit harder the VCD can really throw you as can activate when you don't expect it or want it. For example, on the track a bit of over steer can help you correct the car through a corner. The VCD when on thinks your losing control so it does it's own thing.

I haven't seen it, but have heard of instances in other cars where the VCD can throw you off the track. I've only kept the VCD on once on the track, and that was cause it was the first session on a wet track.

At the same time, I don't push that hard so I'm comfortable driving without it.

I don't go out to kill the car, just to have a bit of fun.

As for ethanol, i did a search and it said all 2004 and onwards Nissan's are ok. This would include the 350z which has the same engine as our V35's so can't see a problem.

The car runs much better on the limit with it in my opinion, and have seen absolutely no side effects since.

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Get them to show you what the car can do, and get them to shit next to you for a few laps. You'll learn more in 5 laps this way than you will in 10 track days as an amateur by yourself.

hmmm, i guess you'll need to bring lots of toilet paper!

sorry, couldn't help it. :D

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Definitely a difference.

When you push a bit harder the VCD can really throw you as can activate when you don't expect it or want it. For example, on the track a bit of over steer can help you correct the car through a corner. The VCD when on thinks your losing control so it does it's own thing.

I haven't seen it, but have heard of instances in other cars where the VCD can throw you off the track. I've only kept the VCD on once on the track, and that was cause it was the first session on a wet track.

At the same time, I don't push that hard so I'm comfortable driving without it.

I don't go out to kill the car, just to have a bit of fun.

As for ethanol, i did a search and it said all 2004 and onwards Nissan's are ok. This would include the 350z which has the same engine as our V35's so can't see a problem.

The car runs much better on the limit with it in my opinion, and have seen absolutely no side effects since.

Well a few times on the track in my old R33, I only had ABS & HICAS as the only 'VDC' for cars of those period...

Never really had anything more sophisticated than those. ie that can apply brake automatically etc...

My V35 is a 2003 model, so that would be excluded or you reckon it will just apply to all VQ35 generation?

I couldn't find any data whether the japanese 100 octane fuel contains ethanol or not...

because if they do contain ethanol in Japan that could mean most JDM cars have long been ethanol-compatible...

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How experienced on the track are you?

It's my first time on the track. The extent of my off-road experience is one skidpan day with my R33 (and I was pretty crap) and on Forza Motorsport 2. I will be using the instructors as much as possible!

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Well a few times on the track in my old R33, I only had ABS & HICAS as the only 'VDC' for cars of those period...

Never really had anything more sophisticated than those. ie that can apply brake automatically etc...

My V35 is a 2003 model, so that would be excluded or you reckon it will just apply to all VQ35 generation?

I couldn't find any data whether the japanese 100 octane fuel contains ethanol or not...

because if they do contain ethanol in Japan that could mean most JDM cars have long been ethanol-compatible...

Really not sure Rianto.

I got my data off the Shell website, which just says all post 2004 Nissan's are compatible (I think from a certain month)

Not sure what changed from 2003 to 2004, but maybe give Nissan a ring and pretend you have an 03 350Z. As far as i know, all engine internals are identical. Not sure though if the ECU plays a part in it?

Sorry mate.

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Just don't try too hard to be a Schumaker on your first day on track and you'll be fine... I believe the format with Driver Dynamics is not a competition race so definitely no taking over during corners and therefore don't take too pressure when you're setting up for a corner turn in with another car approaching from behind... they'll have to let you turn in properly no matter how slow you turn - otherwise they'll get banned off the track. That rule works the same way with all WRX Club track days with Level 2 CAMS.

Were you on the skidpan that I organized a few years ago?

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I'm not sure about the V35 set up,but in most cars it's a good idea not to use the handrake immediately when you park up after a session as the pad contact can warp the rotors, find some where flat and leave in gear.

This doesn't apply to the V35, as the handbrake uses a rear drum. You can park it up on the handbrake.

Definitely cool the car down. Even with Brembos, the car is still underbraked for its weight.

Things I do in the Z33:

Empty all loose items

Do a brake fluid / engine oil change if its been more than around 5000km since the last one

Check the tyres to make sure there's no damage

Check the pads to make sure there's plenty of material on them

Pack my gear (long sleeves, helmet, etc) the night before

Fill the car up with 98RON, and bring a jerry can

Things I always bring:

Tyre pressure gauge

Race tape and cable ties

Water bottle

Change of shirt

I leave my spare in the car when I'm allowed to, and ensure its screwed down. The car is front heavy, and I find taking the spare out makes the rear even lighter and unbalances the car even more. I also don't like tracking with less than 1/3 of a tank of fuel, for the same reasons. I find the car a bit too taily without some weight in the back.

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This doesn't apply to the V35, as the handbrake uses a rear drum. You can park it up on the handbrake.

Mine's auto has a foot brake instead of handbrake, often I forgot to apply it and just put the car in P :-)

Even applied the car can easily drive forward as the foot brake doesn't seem to be so strong.

Being a drum brake might explain why or just need a new drum...

I also don't like tracking with less than 1/3 of a tank of fuel, for the same reasons. I find the car a bit too taily without some weight in the back.

Good to keep a bit of weight at the back too, good for traction on RWD, and stabilises it as scathing said.

May I add there's also a reason why ppl need to keep a reasonable amount of fuel as well, as some track with high speed sweeping corners might push the fuel to one side of the tank and it's a bad time to starve the engine if the fuel pump didn't pickup the fuel. Running lean = detonation.

On a few track days with 3-4 rounds with 4-5 laps each I used only about 1/4 tank in the old R33, so about half tank should be enough if you wanna lighten the car a bit - but I dunno V35 consumption on the track.

Has anyone see the oil sump design on V35, is there any common issue with oil starvation like in the stock RB series GTR oil sump? Although at beginner's level most cars probably not powerful enough to generate enough G-force to starve the engine out of oil during cornering.

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