Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Like many others I had an ABS unit that was leaking and did not want to put another 15+ year old unit on that wasn't leaking yet but was going to, probably 2 minuts after I had paid $400 for it.

Having looked around here on the forums it seemed no one had ever tried to repair one. Since I have a background in brake cylinder resleeving, I had been given many odd things to rebuild and repair because they were either too old or expensive to buy new.

I decided to try to repair mine. What was I going to lose? - I already needed a new one !!!

Anyway, I pulled the thing apart right down to nothing to find the internals all in good condition mainly because they are all made from aluminum and therefore doesn't rust or pit easily. Just the seals had gone hard.

So I tracked down a company that sells EPDM seals (the only material that holds up to brake fluid) and we went about matching them all up (about 36 of them). We found all except one and I started the reassembly.

All went well. Four hours went past and I was refitting the unit to my car, bled the system through and hey presto - Job's a goodin.

The unit has now been back on the car for a few days and all seems to good. Brakes work as new and abs funtion is perfect with no leaks .

Any-one that has some mechanical knowledge and the right tools should be able to do this without too much hassle.

I will keep this updated if any problems arise or if any one wants some help doing there own.

GIVE IT A GO! WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO LOSE? MY UNIT IS NOW AS NEW, NOT SECOND HAND.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228596-abs-unit-i-rebuilt-it/
Share on other sites

Basic tools ie spanners allen keys etc all the normal stuff if you play with cars , nothing exotic

Seals cost me about $75.00 plus some brake fliud got them from a company called Trans seals

If you pull one side of it apart at a time you will always have a referance to look at if you get confused, just take your time and keep things clean .

Ok for those that want to give it ago the company i got the seals from

Trans seals Pty Ltd www.transeals.com.au

1 Atlas court Welshpool WA 6986

08 9458 5766

You will need

number required

2 O-Ring 1.864 x0.070" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.364 x 0.070" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.489 x 0.070" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.612 x 0.103" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.424 x 0.103" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.426 x 0.070" EPDM-70

3 O-Ring 0.609 x 0.103" EPDM-70

3 O-Ring 0.864 x 0.070" EPDM-70

3 O-Ring 0.143 x 0.103" EPDM-70

15 O-Ring 0.176 x 0.070" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.676 x 0.070" EPDM -70

2 O-Ring 0.987 x 0103" EPDM-70

Some PBR rubber grease Available from Repco or the like

Next time i do one i will take photos and do a how to page , until then I'am happy to answer questions .

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

Nice work!!

Mines always had a very minor leak & didnt want the risk of a 2nd hand unit.

Did you bleed the entire system again once changed or just the nipples on hte ABS unit?

Glad the seals r in Perth, was expecting them to be over east :D have printed out your list. thanks

Mike

2 O-Ring 1.864 x0.070" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.364 x 0.070" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.489 x 0.070" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.612 x 0.103" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.424 x 0.103" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.426 x 0.070" EPDM-70

3 O-Ring 0.609 x 0.103" EPDM-70

3 O-Ring 0.864 x 0.070" EPDM-70

3 O-Ring 0.143 x 0.103" EPDM-70

15 O-Ring 0.176 x 0.070" EPDM-70

2 O-Ring 0.676 x 0.070" EPDM -70

2 O-Ring 0.987 x 0103" EPDM-70

Good work. With one exception, I can give the direct reference number, which is much easier for suppliers to work with.

You mention in the first post that one o-ring could not be found. Do you have the dimensions as there might be something available that will be close enough to do the job ??.

  • 7 months later...
Good work. With one exception, I can give the direct reference number, which is much easier for suppliers to work with.

You mention in the first post that one o-ring could not be found. Do you have the dimensions as there might be something available that will be close enough to do the job ??.

Will be doing this in the near future,just ordered the o-rings,will post pics when done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...