Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Coilovers For R32 Gts-t

Rocky88
 Share

Recommended Posts

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Yea, good point, although spring rates can be adjusted on coilovers. The reason why I considered greddy coils is because my choices are 1. very cheap coils like D2 (cca $1000), which according many people wont last long even if just used for daily commuting, then 2. good quality basic street coilovers like TEIN super street, which cost around $1500 (apparently I could get them for less, but god knows where) and then for a little more Greddy S-type.

Besides S-type is (according to their website) designed for comfortable ride:

One man's comfortable ride is another man's trip to the chiropractor.

What's the spring rate?

What's the damping rate?

Why have you limited yourself to those brands?

Ask yourself, which shock absorber manufacturer did Nismo turn to when they needed a better handling package for the upgraded Skylines since 1989? Was it D2? Was it TEIN? Was it GReddy?

Who did Nissan turn to when they wanted the R35GTR to be the best Skyline ever? Was it D2? Was it TEIN? Was it GReddy?

The last question, why shouldn't you enjoy the same technology source for $1250?

Cheers

Gary

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
Yea, good point, although spring rates can be adjusted on coilovers. The reason why I considered greddy coils is because my choices are 1. very cheap coils like D2 (cca $1000), which according many people wont last long even if just used for daily commuting, then 2. good quality basic street coilovers like TEIN super street, which cost around $1500 (apparently I could get them for less, but god knows where) and then for a little more Greddy S-type.

Besides S-type is (according to their website) designed for comfortable ride:

if i was u id worry about the basics, quality damper, suitable spring rates, height adjustability and strong components. dont worry about things like damper adjustability as its just about useless with ur application. this is why i think tein basics sound like a great solution for people on the street, i would love to hear more about people running the basics, but it seems most people go the super streets. the Tein basic dampers correct me if im wrong, are pretty much super streets without damper adjustability and a few other little things, and as i said before i dont think ull really see any use of the damper adjustability in ur case. in fact if anything id say playing around with the damper in a cheaper one without any experience or tuning tools ull probably hinder the performance rather then improve it, even if it "feels better"

ive heard good things about teins, although only ridden in or driven a few cars with teins, jap and aus spec, so i cant talk much about them first hand, but the damper and spring rates are much more suited to aussie roads than a lot of the jap or korean/taiwan/chinese coilovers.

SK's group buy is a great solution for the road, they were great for ride comfort, and depending on how hard ur pushing through the hills u will probably not notice much difference in speed. unfortunately they are not height adjustable via a thread, they are circlip adjustable which is a bit of a bitch, so might not be ideal for u, although tbh i dont really see the point in constantly changing ride height, find the right height and stick with it, ull find the best height for performance is still quite practical and doesnt look too bad either.

if ur dead set on height adjustability id be grabbing the tein basics for $1300-$1400 or whatever they are, and spending the difference of a more expensive coilover on some whiteine adjustable sway bars.

r32skylin Explorer

r32skylin

Posted
Posted

i've been looking at coil-overs aswell,

on nenguns they sell super street teins for about $1100, anyone know how much postage would costf

they have spring rates of 4kg/mm front and back

would these be the jap spec or oz spec ones and is that spring rate particaly soft for coil overs as i noticed all these d2's etc have rate of about 12kg/mm

another thing, does anyone know how low i can get my r32 with tein super streets

noisia Community Regular

noisia

Posted
Posted

i have HSD HR's. 5kg rear 7kg front, very good spring rates.

but any reputerable brands are good.

but your HSD, ISC brands are excellent value for money

leighton fine in his onevia won DA in 04/05 (cant remember) with HSD coilovers.

noisia Community Regular

noisia

Posted
Posted
i've been looking at coil-overs aswell,

on nenguns they sell super street teins for about $1100, anyone know how much postage would costf

they have spring rates of 4kg/mm front and back

would these be the jap spec or oz spec ones and is that spring rate particaly soft for coil overs as i noticed all these d2's etc have rate of about 12kg/mm

another thing, does anyone know how low i can get my r32 with tein super streets

1. yeah stay away from anything above 9kg front 7 kg rear if its a daily driver, u will probably need psyhio coz of our shitty uneven roads. lol

2. f*kn low, probably just get the top of some 17 inchers in the guard. definately defectable.

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
leighton fine in his onevia won DA in 04/05 (cant remember) with HSD coilovers.

nah sorry, fine has never won a DA championship, he came 3rd in 05 and 2nd in 06 in his AE86, he didnt use the onevia till 07, where he fell back to 7th in the championship. i beleive darren appleton won in 05 in his onevia, but not sure what suspension he was running back then, although back in 05 the suspension wasnt really as important as it is today, driver skill was a lot lower and the competition was no where near as tight as it is today, car speeds were much lower etc.

R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted

Ive been through 2 sets of coilovers (teins, and HKS) only to get:

a) Worst ride possible

b) other components on the car deteriorating due to the harsh ride these shocks provide

c) reduced handling

Mate if your after a good all round package which can be modified for drift, street, or whatever your needs i suggest you go with the SydneyKid Group buy. I have this in my car atm, and it is by far the best handling package from my own personal experience and can be had for your appropriate budget. Why buy a coilover which is not suited to the driving you will be doing?

Shoot Sydneykid a PM and im sure he will point you in the right direction, whether that be with his product or any other on the market.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...