Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have just got my L plates and I have about 12k for a skyline, what skyline would suit the new P plate laws in Australia? I am thinking R33 gts. Also bearing in mind a skyline that wont have excessive mods. Even if someone can direct me to a skyline with the qualities on the net would be fantastic.

Thanks

Jamie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228856-i-need-help-p-plate-laws/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Unless you are incredibly in love with the Skyline shape, I'd advise to get something a bit smaller and fuel efficient -or- something that you can really learn to drive in. Like an 86, Integra or Clio Sport.

GTS represent no value for money in my opinion, all the unwanted attention with none of the perks.

It's certainly not a performer either.

All the best.

Hey guys,

I have just got my L plates and I have about 12k for a skyline, what skyline would suit the new P plate laws in Australia? I am thinking R33 gts. Also bearing in mind a skyline that wont have excessive mods. Even if someone can direct me to a skyline with the qualities on the net would be fantastic.

Thanks

Jamie

Jamie, I'm in a similar position to you mate. Under P-Plate Laws in NSW (I'm not sure where you're from?) you are restricted from driving any car with:

-Eight or more cylinders

-A turbocharged engine

-A supercharged engine

-Engine performance modifications

In my opinion the GTS is a good option for now. With 12000 get a non-turbo charged R33 or 32 and you'll be set. Personally, I love the look of the GTS. I'm actually in love with it. I say wait out a couple years before going with the GTR. It's all you're decision though. Good luck with

Seb

Okay cheers guys,

I really want an r33 gts :(

is this car fuel efficient?

Oh also, whats the nissan silvia s13 turbo like for after my Ps or black Ps.

Cheers

Jamie

Hahahaha. skyline and fuel efficient dont go together. :blush:

Honda Jazz is fuel efficient.

But if you really want it, go for it, otherwise you'll spend the next how many years wanting one and getting jealous everytime a skyline does drive past.

Honestly.. If you want a decent NA.. dont get an NA skyline. They have smaller brakes.. 4studs.. open diffs.. weaker boxes..

There are HEAPS of awesome NA's out there that should be thought about before buying an NA skyline:

SR S13

RX7

Type R

1.8L MX5

etc..

Skylines are not the answer to ALL of the worlds problems.. just most of them..

Honestly.. If you want a decent NA.. dont get an NA skyline. They have smaller brakes.. 4studs.. open diffs.. weaker boxes..

There are HEAPS of awesome NA's out there that should be thought about before buying an NA skyline:

SR S13

RX7

Type R

1.8L MX5

etc..

Skylines are not the answer to ALL of the worlds problems.. just most of them..

Excuse my ignorance. But what do you mean by NA?

Do you mean 'stock'?

And if you do mean stock, there's always mods yea?

Excuse my ignorance. But what do you mean by NA?

Do you mean 'stock'?

And if you do mean stock, there's always mods yea?

NA = Naturally Aspirated = No forced induction = No turbo.

Often also means smaller brakes, different diffs, different wheel stud patterns, weaker gearboxes, etc as it doesn't need to be designed/built for the extra power associated with the turbo.

well seeing as i just got my P's i thought exactly what you are now and i love the skyline look, i wasnt going to go buy some other car just for speed i wanted its look but then i thought how to make it fast ....

so i brought a GTS-4 r33 (non-turbo) r32's GTS-4 are turbo chraged, unless you make it non turbo. Easiest to get it as a r33

also i did want it faster after 3 months so i re-bored the cylinders and imported later pistons from nissan japan for $900!!!! its cheap and i have a N/A with a power out put of 165Kw (i want 180Kw) completely stock except for my pistons :cool: i guess re-boring that whole mm had drastic effects and reconditioned top end

for the $900 spent its the best way to ask for speed from a non turbo.

3 weeks and i will have new coil packs, extractors, going up 50cc with the injectors, pod filter ( a whole 1Kw of power :D )

notice all these mods are ones police cant see except the extractors but they dont know that :banana:

you really have plenty of options to choose from i brought my skyline cheap $9000 and reconditioned all my engine now so im getting a very "NEW" car out of this

its all about sitting down making a list of the possibilities mate :banana:

Jamie, I'm in a similar position to you mate. Under P-Plate Laws in NSW (I'm not sure where you're from?) you are restricted from driving any car with:

-Eight or more cylinders

-A turbocharged engine

-A supercharged engine

-Engine performance modifications

In my opinion the GTS is a good option for now. With 12000 get a non-turbo charged R33 or 32 and you'll be set. Personally, I love the look of the GTS. I'm actually in love with it. I say wait out a couple years before going with the GTR. It's all you're decision though. Good luck with

Seb

Hi,

Sorry to go a little off the point...

but does this mean that ($$$ aside) a P plater (a wealthy one) can drive

an E46 M3, NSX, Lotus Elise etc?

In other words, the law is not purely based on power output; but generalised?

Just wondering?

Cheers, T

Hi,

Sorry to go a little off the point...

but does this mean that ($$ aside) a P plater (a wealthy one) can drive

an E46 M3, NSX, Lotus Elise etc?

In other words, the law is not purely based on power output; but generalised?

Just wondering?

Cheers, T

I'm sorry I should of specified the exceptions.

The ones prohibited are ...

-BMW M and M3

-Honda NSX

-Nissan 350Z

-All Porsches 94+

-Mercedes-Benz SLK350

But there are some exceptions which made it through some loop holes

-E30 BMW M3

-Lotus Elise

-VW Golf R32

This list applies to every state by the way.

Hope that helps :D

Seb

Edited by SEB88Y
the price of a turbo'd one in 3-5 years will be about 5k or there abouts with the way its been falling

i hope not :D lol

Im afraid i must agree with most others here. Bye something cheap that it wont really matter if you hit a curb, ding a fender or scratch a rim. cause that will happen in the first few years of driving. And with the price of fuel at the moment its probably not really worth paying for a 6 cylinder NA.

but i know when ive had my heart set one something, no matter what anyone else said, i still chased it. If having an NA r33 is what will put a buldge in your pants.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...