Jump to content
SAU Community

Cant Get A Smooth Gear Change?

Italiazr1
 Share

Recommended Posts

Italiazr1 Proficient

Italiazr1

Posted
Posted

i might be trippin.

but i own an r32 gts-t i havent really driven any other manual r32's so its hard for me to really comment but

basically ever since ive owned the car i find it hard to gear change quickly? for example i need to give it a few split seconds

before getting it in the next gear its not that bad but makes it hard to snap gear's niclely on a track if you know what i mean.

other manuals ive driven are easy as so its not me but i think maybe there could be a problem with my trany?

just wanna hear other guys views. are they all like this?

also been told to shorten the shifter with one of those ebay kits you can get? might help?

not sure mechanic says it is a bit hard to gear change in my car so he's changing oil but i think it was changed recently

does any one know much about it? sorry for the long post. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228858-cant-get-a-smooth-gear-change/
Share on other sites
Italiazr1 Proficient

Italiazr1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

one other thing i forgot to mention is that it has always been really hard to find reverse in the car you need to pull it right to the side before pulling it back into reverse other wise it wont slot in not sur if that means anything?

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted (edited)

Using a short shifter will make it harder as you are loosing mechanical advantage on the lever. It will also wear out your synchros faster. I'd recommend doing the oil change in the gearbox, maybe use something like that redline shockproof?

Just read your signature, if you have that much power and your '20 gearbox is on it's way out, might be time to look into an RB25 box, especially if you intend to be snapping gear changes on track.

Edited by daisu
Italiazr1 Proficient

Italiazr1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah thats what i thought. i know that the box will go next but you can always hope i suppose.

just still wanna know if it is normal to find it a little hard to find gears or are most 32's with a good box smooth not sure cause i dont have many mate's with 32's?

Italiazr1 Proficient

Italiazr1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

its yeah id say all of them obviously alot easier going from 3rd to 4th but 1st to second is kinda stubbourn its really not that bad but its not as good as other manuals ive driven

it almost feels the way a van or a 1 tonne ute is

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted
can you get syncros fixed or replaced or is that part of the box? dont know much about transmissions.

reverse is the very hard to engage.

All my gears in my rb20 box are notchy when shifting in. I try to rev-match so its a smoother change :D

Reverse gear sometimes locks me out and have to depress clutch and try again.

If you want to rebuild your rb20 gearbox, it will be around $900 trade-in.

http://www.japanesegearbox.com.au/intro.html Located in Rowville. Last time i was there they had about 10 fully rebuild rb20 boxes on display.

I think they also said an extra $150 for gearbox swap

Give them a shot if you decide on swapping.

Although with 260kw~ might be better to get a 2nd hand rb25 gearbox as they are much stronger.

Although im in the same position and cant decide wether a 2nd hand rb25 gearbox is better than a brand new rb20 box ;)

Hope that helps

Cheers

Patrick

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
definately not the clutch just changed it and it was the same before..

any more views?

Did you adjust it at all or just threw a new clutch in?

Reverse doesn't have synchros so I can't see how a worn gearbox can result in you not being able to select reverse..

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
Although im in the same position and cant decide wether a 2nd hand rb25 gearbox is better than a brand new rb20 box :D

Definately worth it. I was sceptical when I first put mine in.. $1500 is a lot to spend for something you aren't sure is going to work but since putting the 25box in, I don't regret it and think it was a much smarter thing to do than put ANOTHER 20 box in again.

Italiazr1 Proficient

Italiazr1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

my mechanic replaced my clutch and transmission oil. so im guessing he did all the adjustments to it...

considering there was no engine in the car when he replaced it im sure he had a resonable look inside.

any way yeah i think ima start lookin at a 25 box for the power i have my box wont last long...

how much do you think a 25 box is $1500?

for a second hand one? is that not including labour to put it in?

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted
my mechanic replaced my clutch and transmission oil. so im guessing he did all the adjustments to it...

considering there was no engine in the car when he replaced it im sure he had a resonable look inside.

any way yeah i think ima start lookin at a 25 box for the power i have my box wont last long...

how much do you think a 25 box is $1500?

for a second hand one? is that not including labour to put it in?

rb25 box sells around $1200-$1800 for a second hand one.

You'll also need some slight customizations to make it work in a r32 too, but i think there are several threads discussing this already :(

StOjA32 Enthusiast

StOjA32

Posted
Posted

I just got myself a 1 tonne clutch put into my 32t and i have the same problems .. usually hard to get into 1st and reverse...but the other gears feel really notchie

mechanic took it back adjusted the clutch and it was fine after that ... you might wanna check your clutch

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

New clutch, needs adjusting.

Also, my 25box upgrade was about a $2.5k excercise with the full custom tailshaft I had made and purchase of senders, oil, etc. (paid $1500 for a secondhand 25box)

Edited by bubba
  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • BOLGE
      R34 Plug Identification

      By BOLGE · Posted

      Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...