Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Steering Problem - R32

GTS4-32
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTS4-32 Rising Star

GTS4-32

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys, recently my battery died because i left my lights on so i had to jump start it, so after ive jump started the battery ever since then ive had this problem with my power steering.

now i dont know if its got to do with the jump start or if it was just a coincidence, but my power steering is now screwed, it gets really hard at times to turn a corner.

When i turn a roundabout for example itll seize up and release, its mixed. So its not like its hard the whole way round, just split moments if im making sense. Now ive checked my reservoir and its full and doesnt seem to be leaking, and my p/s fuse seems to be fine, so any information you guys can give me would be much appreciated. :blush:

Cheers,

Steve.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229184-power-steering-problem-r32/
Share on other sites
Above_BAR Enthusiast

Above_BAR

Posted
Posted

the main reason for heavy steering is a leak somewhere. and considering the numerous little pieces of presumably old rubber between the diferent hard line sections scattered all over the car, including the ones back to the hicas..... ya probably leaking somwhere.

replacing old power steering lines has become a hobby of mine with my 32.... just about got them all.

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

probably a fault with the vehical speed sensor, maybe fried it when you jump started. as i understand it, when your at idle and not going anywhere a solinoid switches the powersteering pump into a low pump mode so it doesn't bog the engine down, once you start moving it swiches the pump to full. if you speed sensor if playing up the pump wont be switching into full mode hense the heavy stearing.

try doing a ecu diagnostic and HICAS diagnostic and see if you get an error code. there is info on this in the tutorial section. or if you know someone with a consult cable get them to check for you.

THENIG Community Regular

THENIG

Posted
Posted
It's a voltage problem. You may well have to replace the battery.

Same thing happened to me a few weeks ago, its definitely voltage, mine turned out to be the alternator had packed it in. The HICAS solenoid was opening and closing with a lack of voltage at idle whilst driving at night with headlights and accessories on. Sounded like there was something caught around my drive shaft and slapping against the foot well but really it was the pressure building up in the lines by the pump and then and getting released sending a shock wave through the lines, it was only audible at a standstill at low revs, when i was moving it just turned into heavy-light-heavy steering as i was turning a corner. My alternator seemed to work on start-up when it was cold (14.5V i think) then stopped working after a few minutes causing rough idle, whine through the stereo and dim headlights. I ended up killing a battery a new battery in the process by dropping it below 8V for too long and it never came back even after i changed the alternator. In the process of getting a battery zapper to see if i can bring it back to life, cold winter mornings are asking alot more from the battery than usual. Its been 2 weeks with a new alternator and haven't had any steering problems which used to happen everyday.

GTS4-32 Rising Star

GTS4-32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it wasnt the battery or the alt. I went past oh performance and they seem to believe it may be the power steering pressure sensor, so im looking at changing that to see what happens, but i cant seem to find 1. Anyone know where i can find 1?

116.hks Community Regular

116.hks

Posted
Posted

hey mate. if your alternator is overcharging for example 15volts and over it could be spiking the computer and the system is shutting down because of it saving the components in your power steering. charge rate for all vehicles should be no lower then 13.5v and 14.8v. some of these problems i've seem through my workshop are caused from an intermitted charging fault. the battery wont cause the problem as it is only a storage device, once the vehicle is running the alt runs the vehicle, not the battery. hope the helps.

GTS4-32 Rising Star

GTS4-32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yea thanks mate, it is overcharging, because what ive realized is when i start the car the voltage sits at around 12v and the steering is perfect, as soon as i give it a rev past 3,000rpm the volts rise to about 14.5-15.0v and the steering is rough.

But another thing that happened that i found really weired is i changed my fuel pump the other day and ever since then, night time driving is great, voltage sits from 13.9-14.3 and steering is perfect but day-time driving sits at 14.5-15.0 again. Thats trippy shit.

So anyway, we've come to the conclusion that the alt needs to be changed.

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...