Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

And i have an appointment with a lawyer next wednesday to see if i can take personal action against the guy i baught the car from.

Not to be rude or a smart arse please take this the right way, But why would you take action against the previouse owner? did you not have the car checked out before you puschased it?

I know you have had a hard time and i know you feel like you have been given a sh*t hand, but before you post up things like that ask your self one question "Was there any thing you could of done to prevent your self buying this car?" or did you see "260RS" an just jump in full steam a head?

Please dont take this the wrong way im just giving my 2c worth, some things can be prevented if the right action is taken. I had a mate that owned a subaru WRX EVO, uno the banana yellow ones with the black rims? well he sold his car and the guy that got it smashed the sh*t outta it for a week blew the grearbox up and then tried to return the car. I know your not to blame but is he, if you didnt have the car checked before you purchased it?

Not to be rude or a smart arse please take this the right way, But why would you take action against the previouse owner? did you not have the car checked out before you puschased it?

I know you have had a hard time and i know you feel like you have been given a sh*t hand, but before you post up things like that ask your self one question "Was there any thing you could of done to prevent your self buying this car?" or did you see "260RS" an just jump in full steam a head?

Please dont take this the wrong way im just giving my 2c worth, some things can be prevented if the right action is taken. I had a mate that owned a subaru WRX EVO, uno the banana yellow ones with the black rims? well he sold his car and the guy that got it smashed the sh*t outta it for a week blew the grearbox up and then tried to return the car. I know your not to blame but is he, if you didnt have the car checked before you purchased it?

Nah its ok mate i know what you mean.

The reason i can get him for something i cant really post up here.

I had the car checked out b4 buying and i definatly put some thaught into it. The rust i was told was minor, i was told this from the panel beater, they obviously have a diffrent perspective to minor.

Nah its ok mate i know what you mean.

The reason i can get him for something i cant really post up here.

I had the car checked out b4 buying and i definatly put some thaught into it. The rust i was told was minor, i was told this from the panel beater, they obviously have a diffrent perspective to minor.

to easy mate then i think you should go all out against the panel beaters. not to sure what you mean about not being able to post up here ?

I havnt seen the rust so im not 100% sure. Apparently from the complience guys it just starting to get into the rails. I will know when i get it here i guess. There main concern was more if we couldnt remove the rust completely it would keep rusting underneath the paint underbody sealer etc and just get unsafe in the event of an accident. I guess the rust just got worse in the 10months from when i baught it to the time it finnally got there... ive seen brand new falcons rust through the sils from sitting on car yards.

Unfortuantly atm im in the stage where i need to take someones word for it. The contact i had in QLD helping with the car is away for a while atm so i cant get him to go have a look.

I havnt seen the rust so im not 100% sure. Apparently from the complience guys it just starting to get into the rails. I will know when i get it here i guess. There main concern was more if we couldnt remove the rust completely it would keep rusting underneath the paint underbody sealer etc and just get unsafe in the event of an accident. I guess the rust just got worse in the 10months from when i baught it to the time it finnally got there... ive seen brand new falcons rust through the sils from sitting on car yards.

Unfortuantly atm im in the stage where i need to take someones word for it. The contact i had in QLD helping with the car is away for a while atm so i cant get him to go have a look.

I don't believe in throwing good money after bad but I would like to encourage you to perservere with your RS260... but only on the basis of a proper financial analysis . If you stop now and wreck the car for parts I suspect you will not recoup a whole lot. If you can get someone (maybe another member nearer your car can recommend a panelbeater or insurance assessor) to have a look at your car to estimate how many $$$ it will cost to complete and if (as should be the case) you can get a time extension for compliance because of extenuating circumstances then maybe you will be better to finish repairing the car ... and then you can decide whether to keep or sell it. Without knowing all the facts it looks as though you have a good case for getting compensation from the panelbeater who sat on the car for so long whether or not you end up completing it. I understand that you will be more than fed up but a little more effort may pay off!

My sympathies anyway and good luck.

...Bob

Unfortunately it's a one-time deal with compliance - if the car has been rejected (and the paperwork has been sent to Canberra), then the car can never be complied and registered. Ever.

Neil, give me a ring 0402 904 069, or text me the name of the workshop doing the compliance. If they haven't sent the paperwork off to compliance, there's an outside chance they may let you transfer the compliance to another workshop, but it's a very slim chance.

A few suggestions guys - never ever buy an uncomplied car off a random person, for this exact reason, or at the very least until the compliance workshop has done its initial inspection. I know it's not possible in this case, but wherever you can, try and organise compliance in your own state - it may cost more, but at least you (and they) know you can hypothetically wander in with a baseball bat if things start getting ridiculous. And I hate to say it, but a good import broker, in this situation, would probably have had the problem solved 12 months ago...

It's probably of little consolation, Neil, but you can have a free broker's fee from me if you want to get something else from Japan. I'm a car enthusiast, but more importantly, I'm a Dad to three young kids, and I know what pressures these sorts of dramas can place on relationships when you're getting no sleep whatsover.

Well where do i start??

so i paid for the car in november 07 may get it august 08... what a flaming joke, has been at the panel beaters for over 5 months all up.

I feel for you mate. However try and look on the bright side, there is always someone worse off. We paid for our M35 in early 2007 and are still no closer to driving it. Our case is well documented on this forum and it is not just private sellers you have to be wary of.

Muz

^^ Actually Muz, (sorry to go OT here), I did get word just yesterday that someone in NSW is having a genuine crack at late model emissions for M35s at the moment. I'm not sure if it's related to your car or not, but either way there may be a light at the end of that very long dark tunnel of yours.

Unfortunately it's a one-time deal with compliance - if the car has been rejected (and the paperwork has been sent to Canberra), then the car can never be complied and registered. Ever.

Neil, give me a ring 0402 904 069, or text me the name of the workshop doing the compliance. If they haven't sent the paperwork off to compliance, there's an outside chance they may let you transfer the compliance to another workshop, but it's a very slim chance.

A few suggestions guys - never ever buy an uncomplied car off a random person, for this exact reason, or at the very least until the compliance workshop has done its initial inspection. I know it's not possible in this case, but wherever you can, try and organise compliance in your own state - it may cost more, but at least you (and they) know you can hypothetically wander in with a baseball bat if things start getting ridiculous. And I hate to say it, but a good import broker, in this situation, would probably have had the problem solved 12 months ago...

It's probably of little consolation, Neil, but you can have a free broker's fee from me if you want to get something else from Japan. I'm a car enthusiast, but more importantly, I'm a Dad to three young kids, and I know what pressures these sorts of dramas can place on relationships when you're getting no sleep whatsover.

Thanks for the help man.

I was told by the compliance agent that you have to get the vehicle complied where the import approval was done? Im not sure if they have sent the paperwork off yet.

Problem is this has consumed so much of my time and money even if i could get permision to get it complied in WA I dont have the money now to get it done. And in all honesty i have lost all interest in this car now. And then for all i know the rust might be that bad it cant be fixed.

The car leaves queensland wednesday on its way to me.

OK

Went to perth yesterday and picked up a stock series 1 with a blown turbo for 5k, changed the turbo at a mates house (took 3 1/2 hours), drained all the oil out of the piping and FMIC. Started and drove fine apart from desperately needing new plugs. Made all the way home (150k's) and barely gave it any boost as didnt wana break down, it was 930 by the time i left perth. Got to the suburb where i live and two streets away thought id try it on boost, gave it half throttle went ok, turned down my street, did the same and the new 2nd hand turbo i put on went pop! Its disintegrated the turbine wheel!! only running stock boost to!! Dammit!

Sooo the cars back in peices again now as i source another turbo and do it again. I will drive it stock for a while whilst my autech is on its way. Then start the conversion soon. Im really starting to think im not supposed to own a stagea...

pics of the turbine wheel:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02170.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02171.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02169.jpg

some crappy pics of the new bus (its high coz its on axle stands):

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02176.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02175.jpg

I will be selling all the series 1 stuff i dont need.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...