Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys. im sorry if this is on the wrong section but i couldnt find it anywhere and thought i would just put it in here.

if people could just put down what they have done for weight reduction of any form that would be very helpfull.

also the benefits of for example a lightened flywheel

thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229769-weight-reduction/
Share on other sites

Only use weight reduction measures seriosuly for trackdays or drags.

Take out back seat, spare wheel, subs, anything heavy, carbon fibre bonnet, half tank fuel.

Light weight rims make a big difference in speed also.

oh ok.. well what about a lightened flywheel., how much can that cost and what are the benifits

oh ok.. well what about a lightened flywheel., how much can that cost and what are the benifits

They are about $400 odd.

The benefits is that the engine will rev out quicker as there is less unsprung mass bearing down upon the engine.. Same thing goes for lightened drive shafts.

Down side off lightened flywheels is that its harder to get the car off the line quickly and is easier to stall. Another down side is that a lightened flywheel can't cope with high temperatures and can develop stress fractures and this can transfer over to the clutch.

In terms of weight saving.. how hardcore do you wanna go? On top of what DR180 said.. you can also remove;

Sound deadening

Power steering

Air con

power windows

audio items

fibreglass quarter panels

fixed back carbonfiber/kevlar/fiberglass race seats

choped reo bars

Edited by GTS4WD

There isn't much you can remove/lighten without a compromise. I mean safety/defects/expense/extra noise

IMO only take the above advice (it's all correct) if you're serious about circuit/drag and have some dollars to spend on lighter parts. The heavy bits are up front, but are expensive to replace (bonnet, fenders, engine components). SO removing too much from the rear (speakers, spare, tool bag, boot trim, rear seat, wing etc) will worsen the weight distribution. Expect less grip where it's needed most.

A fair few people here have returned their flywheels back to stock after going lightened. It's annoying to drive on the roads.

IMO the best thing for a street car is try not to ADD weight, as a minimum.

Hope you work it out mate. Cheers :rofl:

Edited by R338OY
hi guys. im sorry if this is on the wrong section but i couldnt find it anywhere and thought i would just put it in here.

if people could just put down what they have done for weight reduction of any form that would be very helpfull.

also the benefits of for example a lightened flywheel

thankyou

what car are you working off as the base?

ay guys sorry to but in but whilst talking about weight distro i guessed wouldnt mind, i am thinking of dyno matting the boot space entirely to improve sub sound and kill road noise a bit do you recon that its worth the effort and $$$

Depends how badly you want to increase the sound.

dude just eat less... im lucky to be not a massive guy (175cms, 55kg) so that helps :(

not a massive guy? lol at that weight your not half a massive guy, lol...

Some thing thats not mentioned so much here that ill add, is that rotating weight means more than static weight (static weight being dead weight held by suspension, and rotating being, engine/drive train)

So lighter wheels, drive shaft, clutch, flywheel, balencer, even crank/rods/pistons all make a big difference. As for lightened flywheels being undrivable? I think the opposite, i love my light flywheel, makes down shift throttle blips so quick, effortless and smooth, car revs quicker etc. No problems with stalling etc, might be more noticed on laggier turbo cars etc, also depends on your gearing etc (i have fairly short gearing for a 3L @ 3.9:1). Lightweight wheels make a big difference also, even brakes....

what was mentioned with the weight distribution is correct, but you can change your suspension accordingly to suit. I don't have a spare or jack etc, i run an rb20det gearbox (lighter than 25det) but have my battery in my boot to help out distribution (if its a 32) you could also get a lighter battery. Less fuel in the tank, pretty much anything else you can look at and replace with some thing lighter or remove all together, sound deadening/carpet, aircon condenser + radiator, shit behind dash, stereo gear, replace window glass, exhaust, windscreen washer and full radiator overflow, whatever floats your boat.

but remember, theres not tooo much of a gain with removing static weight you'll be able to shed, so its about compromises for performance vs comfort, for example, its a bit of work but you can probably take over 20kg of sound deadening/carpet/underlay just out of the cabin, but do you want the noise and vibration?

unless its dedicated track or your going for broke, I'd leave it stock appart from easily removable items, like rear seat (that you can put back in), and lightened drive train, if thats what your into.

Another down point of lightened flywheels is that you will get less engine brake when chaning down gears..

This may sound massively pedantic, but what you have said is not 100% correct.

Basically a heavier flywheel needs more energy to increase its rpm relative to a lighter unit.

So when you change down a gear it will INITIALLY give you more engine braking.

However after that point it will give you less engine braking because its greater stored energy (kinetic energy - again relative to a lighter unit) needs to be soaked up by engine friction & braking etc.

So basically a heavier flywheel will absorb more energy to get it up to speed, but then give it back when you try and brake.

As an aside that means when you don't change down gears a lightened flywheel will increase your braking performance. :(

As an aside that means when you don't change down gears a lightened flywheel will increase your braking performance. :)

Under braking.. the force of the wheels slowing down Via braking) is greater than the force of ineria and gravity acting on the the flywheel to slow it down..

So the force of the brakes slowing the the car and hence the engine, as it is in gear, will over come the force of the flywheel attempting to slow the engine down..

And besides.. its easier to stop/slow down a rotating object of less mass than one with more.

hmmm i think the easiest way to describe the gts4 in my shed is what is in it rather than what isnt in it,

interior wise,

a seat

2 seat rails

3 pedals

a handbrake

a gear lever

a steering column and wheel

1 seat belt.

the dash board has been hollowed out to a shell of it's former self leaving only the things required by law, i e the fan to the windscreen, indicator stalk, light switch, hazard light switch, window wiper switch and gauges. oh and a horn.

doesnt have a roll cage yet

under the car

all components related to the suspension and drive line,

all plastic and anything bolted to the chassis that doesnt help performance is gone.

the bumpers are fibre glass skins with no subframes, the bonnet is the same, along with the gaurds and side skirts,

im currently saving for fibreglass rear qauters and may skin the doors if i can find sombody who can do them.

so far it has gone from a curb wieght of 1420 kgs down to 1158 kgs.

i think if this was done to a gtst it would be even lighter not having the 4wd system.

Under braking.. the force of the wheels slowing down Via braking) is greater than the force of ineria and gravity acting on the the flywheel to slow it down..

So the force of the brakes slowing the the car and hence the engine, as it is in gear, will over come the force of the flywheel attempting to slow the engine down..

And besides.. its easier to stop/slow down a rotating object of less mass than one with more.

I have no idea what you are trying to say. Something about gravity, right? :)

Braking friction & engine friction (or pumping losses if you like) both act to remove energy from the car & hence slow it down.

The kinetic energy of the flywheel constitutes part of the energy needing removal.

The less kinetic energy a car has (for a given speed) the easier it is to slow down.

A lighter flywheel stores less kinetic energy....

If you are changing gears (either up or down) you are simply trading some linear kinetic energy (ie of the car going forward) for some rotational kinetic energy (ie the flywheel going around). All of the energy (whether linear or rotational) needs to be gotten rid of to slow the car (assuming it is in gear). The advantage of the lightened flywheel is less energy is needed to spin up what is ultimately a useless piece of junk and can instead go into making the car go quicker in a straight line.

Anyway the heirachy of dealing with weight goes in the following order.

1. Reduce unsprung weight.

2. Reduce the inertia of any rotating components.

3. Reduce static weight.

4. Relocate weight, ie lower, away from the more heavilly loaded axle and closer to the middle of the car.

Basically item 1 is the most important & then in descending order items 2, 3 & 4. At the end of the day, though, you do what you can.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...