Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the title says, im interested in getting rims painted. i may be buying a mates wheels off him, but they're white, and i don't really think i want white rims on my car, would wreck to look. so im thinking that id paint them to suit my taste.

iv read up on various DIY tutorials around the forums, seems easy enough, but just a matter of getting the time to do it really, whihc is something i dont have, also the fact i dont plan this to be a temp job, i want it to last. would it be easier and more effective to take it to a professional spray painter and get them to do it instead? i should have a bit of money to spend since its that time of the year (tax returns yo) but i dont want the job to cost more than the wheels did!

what are your opinions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229778-wheel-painting/
Share on other sites

would it be easier and more effective to take it to a professional spray painter and get them to do it instead?

Easier, of course. More effective, I would say so, (they are professionals)

Though cost more, Yes.

I just painted r33 Stockies gloss black. And they came up sweet.

If you don't mind doing a bit of labour, are patient and half smart then paint it yourself.

though if you are a perfectionist who doesn't have an eye for detail then get them painted.

Though as you said, it may cost more for the wheels to be painted then buying them so you may end up paying as much as you would for real nice 2nd hand wheels or brand new ones.

I say DIY to save some cash and when people go "they are nice", you can say "I did those" :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229778-wheel-painting/#findComment-4039534
Share on other sites

a pro or a bodyworks will use 2pac paint which is said to be stronger than acrylic you buy in a pressure pack. but i have seen the result with acrylic and if done proper and well comes up a treat and an easy diy job that costs you next to nothing.

something else to look at would be getting them baked or powder coated...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229778-wheel-painting/#findComment-4039557
Share on other sites

yeah, powder coating and 2pac are my 2 top preferences atm. have a bit of exp with getting custom 2pac jobs done, tho its quite expensive still.

dont know how 2pac would go with brake heat tho? it has a hard time coping with my cup of coffee sometimes :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229778-wheel-painting/#findComment-4039561
Share on other sites

don't spray them, won't last. No where near hardy enough to cope the abuse wheels do..

powder coat, that's what i did. Place i got them done was $70 a rim (including wheel caps)

did you have tires on the rims when you got that done?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229778-wheel-painting/#findComment-4039777
Share on other sites

no tyres on rim when they do it. i got my old 33 rims done for 50 a rim, 25 to sand blast first and 25 to powder coat and they through in a can of touch up to spray the centres with.

id go powder coat for sure

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229778-wheel-painting/#findComment-4039801
Share on other sites

l_4e70ceda59b9ab8ded77dcc5079917af.jpg

the rims on the rear, are the ones that i would be re-painting, that pics on a mates car. do you think it would be possible to do the spokes like a metallic grey or black and then have a chrome rim/dish aswell? or if it would look decent even

Edited by G0DZLR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229778-wheel-painting/#findComment-4039836
Share on other sites

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought to polish alloy rims you will either be forever polishing them (cause they corrode easily and stain) unless you clear coat them and I haven't see a clear coat on alloys that either lasts or looks any good...

You could I think get them chromed but I think you will be lookin at some cash once you do the powder coat then the chrome along with blasting.

Alternatively you can get a silver metallic powdercoat, I haven't seen chrome powdercoat but I have heard of it, talk to craved on these forums, he knows his powdercoat and does it professionally...

But don't think you can get away with polishing the raw alloy as my experience with it is you'll be forever cleaning and polishing them.... it will suck just like polishing cam covers, its just not worth it in my opinion, I would get everything powdercoated if I could afford it...

I've just done similar things with my new rims, but I did just one colour.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229778-wheel-painting/#findComment-4041536
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...