Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have decided on these 4 cars to get for my first car.

Nissan silvia Sr20 or Ca18 turbo

Nissan Pulsar SSS n14

Mitsubishi lancer

Toyota Celica 88-89+

Please note i have around an 8000 budget. Please give me your thoughts and any experiences you have had with any of these cars thanks

I reackon a turbo car isnt a great idea for a 1st car im glad i didnt get 1 now.

Pulsar is nice but why not an sr20de silvia my CA manages alright for a 1.8. Do the exhaust intake maybe a cam and they arent slow for an N/A car great first car if you can afford insurance.

Fun in the wet to if you can avoid the kerbs.

They will also kill ne lancers or celica's around an my car keeps up with 6 cyl falcons an commo's and mine's stock.

I'd recommend a N/A front wheel drive car..

out of the lancer, celica and N14 SSS, I would take the SSS.

Apart fomr insurance on the turbo models, the fact that you don't have that much driving experience means that RWD cars are still dangerous when driven hard for you and anyone near you..

SSS is a good car. in the future you can get rid of it and get something else, or do the SR20DET engine conversion to it

a cheap, safe car that you're not going to cry over if you write it off.

Out of those choices, give that they're all the same price, I'd choose the N14 SSS.

The silvia is quicker than the celica the ca18de also has more power than the pulsar sr20de to and i reckon looks better as well :D Mods on a silvia are so cheap to. If you are mechanically gifted there are very cheap ca18 silvia's coming into the country atm bcoz of the 15yr rule rebuilding 1 of these and raising the compresion a ca16de exhaust cam and everything else would make it go hard, as well as computer remap.

Just check insurance out coz u will have probs c if u can insure it under ur old man, go and get quotes for a few of the cars ur looking at or even better get ur dad to do it bcoz they will say no to u if its an import trust me.

for your first car dont get a turbo,,,....

just get something cheap, something rear wheel drive...something to muck around in... eg ......vl argh argh.... whatever... , then once you are a good enough driver eg asa you get off your ps replace the vl with a gtst + mods plus full comp.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...