Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Go the SSS dude, they're good on fuel, easy to drive and best of all they stick to the ground really well! Just make sure if you get one, get the N14, all the rest suck. Go a 94 mod if you can get one for 8k, doubt it though. You can do it up a bit too, and, if you're like a mate of mine, drop a SSS turbo bluebird motor into later on... Depends what your after, but I think that the SSS is a sweet ride for a first car, the only drawback is it's FWD (no burnouts) and gets a bit crowded with 3 in the back. (only my opinion though)

They have the same engines yes but the pulsar is detuned for Aus. The SR silvia isnt faster than the CA iv driven both but if you rebuilt the CA and remapped it with a higher rev limiter it'd go harder and atm its quite easy to get a CA, bcoz of the 15 yr rule.

The SR silvia has 103kw and the CA has 97 obviously quoted from the factory. The SSS i think has 93

If you want any info on silvia's look at the silviawa website under n?a performance or the silvia aus site. Both have great info.

Only advantage the pulsar has is 4 doors, but it is also fwd and prob weighs a lil more. Its also cheaper to mod an s13.

In the end find a car for the right price in good condition.

Originally posted by Greg

thought about a toyota cressida? they're nice cars but hard to find in manual

They only came in auto, if you are talking about the last shape. Although some people have been known to do manual conversions. My friend was gonna do a 2jz swap into the cressida along with manual. Turned out to be difficult, would have been a mad sleeper (in a major way!!)

My parents have a grande. Cheap insurance, expensive parts.

I rekon get an N14.

Although i got a swift gti for my first car ( 18months ago, with the same budget.)

mmm... firstly i'd reccomened a little sihtter to thrash the arse out of for 6-12 months.

but if 8g's (maybe take it to around 9-9.5) and you can get an R31 coupe (turbo) no worries in the world.

It'd be stock, but with Zorst (800), boost (80), ECU remap - ECCS engine (500-700) then you'll be laughing if you spend 1500 on it.

Plus they handle exceptionally well.

The IRS is decent for it's age

i've had two already and i'm only 20 ;)

my thoughts are that out of those cars, the silvia or N14 you get for 8k will be pretty much a heap of shit (I'm not 100% sure on the N14 though), and guaranteed to have been thrashed. The Lancers are gutless with shithouse build quality. The celicas are kinda comfy but hell boring.

I'd look at aussie delivered R31s (not the imports) in that price range. Get a 1989/90/91 model manual and you'd have a reasonably quick, efficient and comfy car, with some space, good handling and rwd. You could probably find the "silhouette" model for your money which means LSD, 15" mags and a sporty interior.

Theres even one guy selling an aussie GTS (not to be confused with the jap one) on here for $8500, those cars were built by Nissan's special vehicles division and had bilstein suspension, the LSD, a different body kit, 16" mags, sporty interior with a momo wheel, and an extra 20 or so KW over the basic one. They are acknowledged as one of the most refined and best handling sedans to come out of the 80's. They built two different series (the car had a bodywork facelift hence second one), the first is white on white 16" rims, the second one was red on white 16" wheels and a more aggressive kit (and some extra power). They only built 200 of each, but parts are common to the basic ones so thats no problem.

My one gets 8l/100kms if you are careful and 10-13l/100 if you cane it.

just an idea.

cheers,

floody

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...