Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm American. defense contractor and i live in japan. here are a couple quick snips of my R33. i rarely post here.

i bought it stock from osaka, had it shipped to my island. i'll list the mods if anyone cares:

17x9.5 Try force zelda +20offset with 20mm spacers (so they are 0 now)

boost limiter hose removed

boost solenoid grounded

hks velocity stack filter

JIC coilovers

5zigen exhaust

trust test pipe

hks ssq blow off valve

apex boost gauge

nismo white duracon shift knob

joined this site because i needed to find a country who got the skyline that spoke english and you cool-ass aussie people ALMOST speak english :wave: , i am a Mad Max fan, and i cant stand Brits, sooooo it made sense.

2uxzg9c.jpg

2w31f0o.jpg

27hv7.jpg

s2brds.jpg

YES! triforce zelda's rock... well i reckon they do anyways...

might need to roll that guard a lil more and push the wheels out a touch more... maybe 5mm? you live in the land of perfect fitment... gotta fit in with the nihonjin.

are you on okinawa base?

YES! triforce zelda's rock... well i reckon they do anyways...

might need to roll that guard a lil more and push the wheels out a touch more... maybe 5mm? you live in the land of perfect fitment... gotta fit in with the nihonjin.

are you on okinawa base?

I am on Okinawa, but I am a civilian and have a house in Gushikawa.

the picture of the rear is deceiving. its rolled, i just countoured it so its not rolled where it doesnt need to be. my limitation thre is lug length. i have the nismo long studs on there so either i need to go to a hub adapter or get different wheels. i want to get a set of gram light 57 psos and powdercoat them an obnoxious color like metallic tangerine because the make those in like a 12-15 offset so i would only need about 10mm of spacer to get them out there "lip to fender"

thanks for the compliments. i heard the aussies were a tough crowd like "the night rider"

3 Spokes Are The Perfect Thing... :) I also have Zelda Tripsokes.

I want to work on the fitiment on my R34:

the spacers are the cheap part. the tricky part is finding what mm tire to put on what inch rim. these are 9.5in with 215mm tires, i am going to go to 205mm tires but with a bit taller sidewall when i get these powder coated.

i jsut broke down and bought hub adapters on my lunch break so im going ot be able ot come out a little more in the rear so itll be perfect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...