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Dude dont *** around with boost cut defenders and stuff when the stock r32 ecu is so easy to modify. Its just a matter of raising the afm cut up a few degrees.

Surely theres someone in the area that can do it or maybe i can send you an ecu thats already had it taken off.

You should hit 300 at the rear.

yeah i think im going to just get my ecu remapped all together and ditch the SAFC that way i get a/f ratios and ignition timing all done as well as speed/boost cuts. then i dont have to do anything else! and hopefully get that 300rwhp im aiming for!

You are making 207rwkw. Thats past the limit of the standard RB20DET AFM.

A Remaped ecu isn't going to do anything as the AFM is still going to send a 5v signal to the ecu. Slapping a Z32 AFM will send a lower voltage at a higher air flow rate.

Hence why you notice the boost cut more so in the higher gears as the turbo in higher gears pushes more air than in lower gears.

This is also generally why with turbo cars you will get a higher dyno reading in say 4th gear compared to third.

... i appreciate what all the fuss is with Z32 AFMs, but i dont think they are a physical wall when chasing power.

Ok RB20 AFMs run out of resolution but can be tuned around to still make good power (Am i right????)

This saves time (=money) when getting the car dyno'd/chip rewritten, as the whole rev range wont require changing as a result of the different AFM output.

My car made 160rwkw in third then 164 in fourth.

Apparently its due to the turbo having more time to spin up and get more air flowing.

Similiar to why with a big turbo on a smallish motor the turbo hasn't got time to feed air in to the motor in first gear.

But yer.. The torque is higher in lower gears just for some reason the peak power reading is slightly lower.

This is also why 3rd gear is known in turbo cars as the overtaking gear.

I've got the two runs that I can scan for you to compare if you like.

Its what the dyno said and when I asked Tim he said yer thats pretty normal for Turbo cars due to blah blah what I said above.

Joel, that's bizarre, I mean torque x rpm is power, so if you have more torque at any given rpm power must increase. Perhaps your dyno operator has been messing with correction figures or increasing load to spool the turbo up harder/quicer?

Sorry, I am not trying to naysay what you have got on paper, just trying to understand how it happened?

Joel: with the Z32 airflow meter is it possible to just slap it on without tuning the ecu? i keep getting mixed responses to this, i have a wiring diagram that shows me how to run a Z32 meter into my old afm wiring. and the instructions dont say anything about tuning computer - i dont know if it assumes someone doing this conversion will have aftermarket management or tuned ecu.

When or if i get my ecu tuned, would it be worth while fitting a Z32 afm? or is it a waste?

Maybe its the charastic of my EBC when in Auto mode.

My EBC if set to say 16psi will hit 15psi then slowly creep up to 16psi. Where as in manual mode it will hit 16psi then slowly drop as the rpm rises (i.e turbo running out of puff apparently)

When In auto mode the EBC in second gear will make a peak of maybe 15psi where as in third it will peak at 16psi.

Maybe the EBC influenced the factors?!?

bbenny..

For example...

Stock AFM: 10cfm passing the afm so it sends 1v to the ecu.

Z32 AFM: 10cfm passing the afm so it sends .5v to the ecu.

This to me would make the car do everything leaner as with z32 afm it thinks less air is entering the motor there for it puts less fuel in.

It would most probably affect your idling and mid range more likely. Would be interesting to see exactly how it would run.

Personally I would slap it in start the car and see what happens. If all seemed ok I would take it for a light spin with out hitting boost as i'm familiar with the or my cars feeling when it is running lean. Then off to a dyno to double check.

I was reading a zoom mag a couple of days ago and on the second page its got advertisements to the Dyno Dynamics Dyno.

If you photocopy or bring the token that is attached you get a free bottle of Nulon Pro Strength I think it is and a free dyno AF check. :)

so is it worth while doing a swap when i get my ecu tuned? it just seems a little dodgey running out of the std airflow resolution...

I wouldnt have a clue how to tune an ecu so i dont know if thats right, but does that mean the ecu will get an accurate signal if it is maxing out?

Air flow resolution will only be an issue if you say tune the car for 1.2 bar, get the mixtures right (using the dyno AF sensor), then when you get the car on the street turn the boost down. Reason is the AFM doesnt know the difference in flow of anything above its max of 5.115V. Bottom line is you will run rich as hell on lower boost. If you decide you dont car and want to run the boost the car is tuned at - it will make no difference.

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