Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just after some info, hopefully you can help me out with the answers.

I have just purchased a 1993 M'spec r32, totally stock (17inch rims) and was wondering what the best first mods to make are, I have owned two turbo cars prior to the skyline (2ltr 180sx, A4 turbo Quattro) and they both responded well to exhaust, intake mods so i am assuming the skyline will aswell !.

the car has suede interior, is this normal.

I want to take the rear spoiler off does anyone know roughly how much it costs to get the holes repaired (in sydney).

To get the GTR look bonnet do you get the factory one modified, buy a kit, or find a gtr bonnet?

Finally do the members of this site often/ever organise cruzes, motor kahners etc i would be interested in attending

thank you in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23050-new-skyline-owner/
Share on other sites

Welcome to the board Pekatu.

I understand that the velour trim is standard for series I gtst, series 2 has cloth seats.

no idea on the boot holes.

GTR bonnet, you need new bonnet, lights etc.

There are regular cruises, track days etc held, details are posted in the Events seciton of the NSW forum.

There's plenty more information on these topics on the boards, try the search function.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23050-new-skyline-owner/#findComment-493870
Share on other sites

Suede = Yes

Boot lid = $200 - $300

Bonnet = You CAN mod yours but it will cost a fortune and will probably look crap, just try adn find a GTR one even if it is damaged. Your lights will be fine.

Mods =

1. Exhaust (Full from turbo as dump pipe is very restrictive)

2. Filter (In box)

3. Filter (pod with CAI)

4. Bleed valve (not too much)

5. FMIC

6. Bleed valve (to 14psi on stock turbo)

7. Engine management (chip, safc etc)

8. Turbo (VG30 is cheap and good for 220rwkw)

9. TURBO (bigger, ball-bearing)

10. ENGINE MANAGEMENT (Better than prior if you go cheap)

11. Injectors (550cc)

12. Internals, timing etc

The best piece of advice I can offer is get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing after each major mod or boost increas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23050-new-skyline-owner/#findComment-493917
Share on other sites

If you look on the inside end (Furtherest from indicator) of the lights there are some plastic tabs this is where the GTR grill would be attached to so in fact your lights are the same as the GTR lights. I know of 2 people with GTR bonnets on their gtst and there was no need to change the lights.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23050-new-skyline-owner/#findComment-498172
Share on other sites

Have fun, the grill shouldn't be an issue as there are several companies that do an aftermarket version of the stock grill but the bonnet is the trick as they are fairly sort after and normally priced accordingly, don't forget that they are aluminium so be carefull when shutting or you will dent it :stupid:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23050-new-skyline-owner/#findComment-498518
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...