Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Check you boost actuator; if it's soft or lazy it will be opening the internal gate too early, causing turbo to be laggy and not boost up properly.

I would personally take it to a mechanic that has a dyno and knows how to diagnose these issues.

*cough* :ermm:

To set the actuator properly the hole on the actuator shaft should be about half a hole short from fitting on the gate pin. You then need to pull the arm so that the pin fits through the hole. This will provide the right preload/tension on the gate.

The std ecu normally runs pretty rich, so if you have a std 7psi actuator i would dare say it would be ok. If you do not have the money for an ecu and tune i would seriously find a w/shop doing a "dyno day", adjust the actuator just before going on the dyno and inform the tuner/mechanic of the situation and to keep an eye/ear out for a/f ratios and detonation. This way it will only cost you about $40-$50, instead of the $120+ w/shops may charge to do a single run.

All the best.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The rear housing is more of the restriction, not the front

VG30 machine jobbies always choke up

Made over 270rwkw@16psi with mine, proven both on EAS and Racingline dyno's. My old one is now hanging off the side of a std NEO engine making over 270rwkw@16psi too. Any more boost was useless as that's about the limitations of this turbo.

Hardly a "choke up" though :rolleyes:

Made over 270rwkw@16psi with mine, proven both on EAS and Racingline dyno's. My old one is now hanging off the side of a std NEO engine making over 270rwkw@16psi too. Any more boost was useless as that's about the limitations of this turbo.

Hardly a "choke up" though :(

If its @ a limit on 16psi, its choking.

the compressor of that combo is good for over 300

  • 3 months later...

Hello all, I thought i would dig up an old thread.

Have since apgraded injectors AFM and have a blitz front mount and its currently making around 250rwkw on 15psi.

Anyway from other ppls results i have seen that with the 0.62 rear housing this turbo doesnt make much more after around 16psi which i'm nearly at. My question is it worth fitting an adjustable ex cam gear to this setup and getting a retune? I'm running the standard air box with a k&n filter and standard everything else.

Thanks again

James

PS: i did a search but most of the results were in regards to stock turbos. Thought mine might be a little different

Edited by Bond

you should be able to make more power with an adjustable exh cam gear (assuming you are not talking a NEO RB25DET). at the very least you should be able to move the power curve around to where it helps you the most. you can make 5-10kw from midrange to top end.

Also i'm lead to beleive that my 0.62 rear housing is holding me back in regards to top end power (is there any way of testing which side is hiolding me backCan anything be done to get some more out of it or do i have to bite the bullet and upgrade to a 0.82 (or whatever it is).

Thanks

James

check out what the mafia squeezed out of the 0.63 housing on his GT3076.

i am pretty sure you can make at least 270rwkw or thereabouts with the 0.63 housing.

the compressor will clearly flow more but it should make 250rwkw comfortably.

sure you dont want to add Tomei poncams and some head work :P

lol nah, cant comment on that ^ as I havent got my baby back yet, soon my pretties, soon ....

for a larger rear housing, turbo off/on etc, labour from shop, id say $600 to supply/replace rear housing?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...