Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

...

JJR front/dump from just jap. didnt fit up right need to be cut and re-welded, the bend is wrong and hits the crossmember...

I'm thinking of getting the bellmouth from jjr too... but i thought it was suppose to be a bolt on jobbie... most others that have fitted it have had no problems?

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm thinking of getting the bellmouth from jjr too... but i thought it was suppose to be a bolt on jobbie... most others that have fitted it have had no problems?

yeah i thought the same .. heard the r33 fits up perfectly to the series 2

Guys are you confusing the bell-mouth (non split) with the split pipes here? I contacted JJR and they told me the splits have issues, need modification to fit properly, but that the bellmouth pipes (non-split) fit stagea without modification.

Edited by DaveB
ahh finally exhaust is on, and pics have been taken

JJR front/dump from just jap. didnt fit up right need to be cut and re-welded, the bend is wrong and hits the crossmember

3" Xforce hiflow cat

Xforce MID muffler

Xforce read muffler with twin 3"tips

That's it, that's what I'm after for my S2! I'm in same boat - want to buy a jap system but they're all cannons. Do you have the part number of the rear x-force muffler? Stuff with twin tips like that seems pretty rare...

C'mon guys don't be weak.. Go twin 4" cannons :yes:

IMG_0033.jpg

I've got a 3" exhaust on my car going through to the twin 4" cannons and the young kids across the road recon my car is a beast caus it shakes there windows when i start it up lol

I also want to get a JJR Bellmouth dump.. not sure what dump i have on mine but i want something thats gonna free flow.. also i want to see if i can get 3" pipe with some mandrel bends for an intake pipe for the turbo.

Edited by SHIZNT

Quiet, but with a nice deep rumble while cruising... Open her up & the volume increases a fair bit.

Nowhere near shaking windows though :D

3" Fujitsubo Legalis R Evolution exhaust

3" Kakimoto front pipe

post-31842-1227482989_thumb.jpg

Stock dump because it contains the pre-cat which I have found it enough if you are selective about which fuel you use.

example: I filled up using Vortex98 last week and for the first time, my car smelt like rotten egg. Used 74L, put 15" of Vpower in, smell is much less.

Will be filling up tomorrow with ether Ultimate or Vpower. Smell should be gone completely.

ahh finally exhaust is on, and pics have been taken

JJR front/dump from just jap. didnt fit up right need to be cut and re-welded, the bend is wrong and hits the crossmember

3" Xforce hiflow cat

Xforce MID muffler

Xforce read muffler with twin 3"tips

Well I got the same problem as you when I did mine

JJR Bellmouth - didn't fit properly - exacly the same problem (and yes I brought the Stagea one) so it was rewelded

3" Magaflow Cat

Custom mid Muffler

Xforce 3" muffler with twin 3" twips

Sounds very good, has a nice exhaust note, still has that skyline sound and it's not too loud to be cop bait

xforce rear muffler numbers is MP01 . if you go to there webpage and click on the universal mufflers. wont be hard to spot it.

my middle muffle is faily big. got a nice note to it. cant hear it when i open it up tho. but been told it sounds nice from behind.

its going back today to get the front pipe fixed, gonna ask him to take out the muffler also .. see how it sounds then if its too 'droney', ill put it back on when i do the 100k service

on that note . ima go and make a video recording with twin mufflers so anyone interested can hear what it sounds like

C'mon guys don't be weak.. Go twin 4" cannons :ermm:

IMG_0033.jpg

I've got a 3" exhaust on my car going through to the twin 4" cannons and the young kids across the road recon my car is a beast caus it shakes there windows when i start it up lol

I also want to get a JJR Bellmouth dump.. not sure what dump i have on mine but i want something thats gonna free flow.. also i want to see if i can get 3" pipe with some mandrel bends for an intake pipe for the turbo.

speak with ray at re about the pipe. he should have a fair bit left after doin my exhaust i'll check today heading in about 30mins

speak with ray at re about the pipe. he should have a fair bit left after doin my exhaust i'll check today heading in about 30mins

Cool mate, I'm heading down there on Thursday. Finally getting my spitfires put in then increase boost and back on the dyno! Hopefully i get some decent results.

That sounds awesome... thanks for that. Can't really tell very accurately because of the auto-volume thing on video cameras, but it sounds pretty quiet when you compare to the voices which seem to drown out the exhaust? Do you know the part number of your centre muffler?

um .... i will have it off the car by tomorrow. can always check the invoice and let you know when i pic up my car.

yeah you cant hear it as you would say on a r34 with cannon. idle is quiet, little bit of RB rumble, can tell the difference between the stock for sure,

new vid should be up thursday ... if not weekend latest with just the rear muffler

damn if only my work would allow youtube access...wanna compare you car to my car since it has roughly the same setup...the only exception that i only have one mid muffler

Quiet, but with a nice deep rumble while cruising... Open her up & the volume increases a fair bit.

Nowhere near shaking windows though :P

3" Fujitsubo Legalis R Evolution exhaust

3" Kakimoto front pipe

post-31842-1227482989_thumb.jpg

Stock dump because it contains the pre-cat which I have found it enough if you are selective about which fuel you use.

example: I filled up using Vortex98 last week and for the first time, my car smelt like rotten egg. Used 74L, put 15" of Vpower in, smell is much less.

Will be filling up tomorrow with ether Ultimate or Vpower. Smell should be gone completely.

Niiice... do you know where you can get a Legalis R cat-back system? They're 3 inch and fully stainless aren't they? The best I've been able to find is an exhaust shop that has done several stageas apparently, who said a stainless custom system would be around $850 + cost of exhaust tip(s) ($80 +). That in 3" stainless.

Edit: OOPS mis-read - you can only get that system for M35 :)

Edited by DaveB
  • 2 weeks later...

just got one of my mufflers taken out , so now its a straight 3inch pipe from the cat to the rear muffler, and ya know what .. its quieter then a r34 with a cannon tip and mid muffler

so its staying the way it is :D i'll post a vid on youtube soon, so you can tell the difference

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...