Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

Got my R33 GTST S1 a few weeks back now and about 7 times since ive had it, it decides to turn off while driving. Not when at speed, but when shifting down or coming to a stop, the revs drop to below 500rpm, hunt for a bit then the car shuts off. happens pretty randomly.

Any ideas?

Cheers

Jaye

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230927-auto-turn-off/
Share on other sites

I had and have the same problem, its a aftermarket BOV but it can also happen if it stock but taht is mainly when you are turning because your power steering can occasionally over load the motor, thats at least what i hae been told...autos are not the only ones that do it thou manuels to

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230927-auto-turn-off/#findComment-4056591
Share on other sites

hahaha i had the same prob when comming up to roundabouts in my series 2 gtst manual...... i was told it could be a million things and i was lost...... in the end i chose the most common problems first..... clean the shit out of the AFM, clean the throttle boddy, and last but defiantely not the least important CHANGE THE SPARK PLUGS!!!!! I did these and the idle went up by it self and doesnt dip anymore and it also drives like a new car.... Do this first since they are cheap and easy to do your self and even a mechanic can do it for under $250 including Platinum NGK's if your lazy or dont wanna f**k it up...... then if that doesnt work sit down and try to figure out what else could cause this???? eg: i found a leak in one of my engine lines and i figured out if i took the line completely off the engine would stop, so if it was leaky it would make the car idle alittle starnger than usual.....

good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230927-auto-turn-off/#findComment-4056858
Share on other sites

Leaking BOV (it doesn't necessarily need to be aftermarket) or a dirty AFM are the two most common causes for the issues you're experiencing.

Since everyone's covered the BOV, have you changed your air filter recently? A lot of people describe similar issues (along with the car running really sluggishly off the line) after they've cleaned a reusable filter, because they've over oiled it or haven't let it dry and some excess has ended up on the AFM sensor.

As an aside, you let the engine drop to 500RPM when changing down?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230927-auto-turn-off/#findComment-4056933
Share on other sites

hey all

thanx for the replys.

yeah i do have an aftermarket bov and a K&N pod but only put the pod on recently. i dont let it drop back down to 500 wen shifting down, i mean wen coming to a stop and just put foot on clutch and brake.

and yeah it happens more wen turning corners.

so is there anything i could do to stop this happening but keep the bov??

maybe get the idle pushed up a bit??

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230927-auto-turn-off/#findComment-4056938
Share on other sites

prefer the sound of the one i have one. sounds mean and make the engine bay look a lil better. lol. dont have the money to tidy it up yet.

Aftermarket BOV do shit all.

Its just for noise, unless for racing applications when running high boost and the stock one cannot handle the pressure anymore.

I suggest you remove the aftermarket one and keep the standard one.

Also you have a Pod filter installed, it should give you the "Choo" noise, which sounds a lot better.

Cool!

BTW it don't cost anything to tidy up the engine bay, just wipe everything down with a damp cloth...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230927-auto-turn-off/#findComment-4059900
Share on other sites

i mean wen coming to a stop and just put foot on clutch and brake.

and yeah it happens more wen turning corners.

so is there anything i could do to stop this happening but keep the bov??

maybe get the idle pushed up a bit??

My R34 auto does the same thing. I have a stock BOV (it dosnt leak). Everything has been cleaned or replaced, no boost leaks ect. I know aftermarket BOV's do give trouble but why everyone jumps to the conclusion that it must be the aftermarket BOV when just as many people have this issue with a stock car is beyond me...

I have simply come to the conclusion that skylines are a sensitive, nervous, high maintenence car that give you as much grief as happiness.

EDIT - I should note that in my case I am 99% certain I have traced this problem to the titronic computer being too slow to react to a quick stop and stalling in certain situations. This dosnt help you manual guys though.

Edited by colossus
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230927-auto-turn-off/#findComment-4059986
Share on other sites

My R34 auto does the same thing. I have a stock BOV (it dosnt leak). Everything has been cleaned or replaced, no boost leaks ect. I know aftermarket BOV's do give trouble but why everyone jumps to the conclusion that it must be the aftermarket BOV when just as many people have this issue with a stock car is beyond me...

As Scathing said, AFM is most commonly the other cause to hunting and turning off. Dry/brittle solder or dirty sensor. It's a do it yourself job, no need to buy a new one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230927-auto-turn-off/#findComment-4062684
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...