Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

i want to buy a r32

ive been looking around iand ts hard to find a non turbo one and when u find one there more expensive then the turbo ones

how hard would it be to buy a turbo r32 and take out the turbo and how much would it cost to do

i would have to replace the ecu with a non turbo one and get a non turbo inlet and outlet manifold.

any advice would be really appreciated

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231193-removing-turbo/
Share on other sites

If you do the work yourself it shouldnt be too expensive..

You need;

Intake piping

Exhaust mani/Headers - I have a stock exhaust manifold if you are looking to buy.

NA ECU.

Now the problem is compression ratio. The last thing you want is a low compression 2L NA.

You could always take off the head and shave the balls off it to get the NA 10:1 C.R. Or shave a little more and run a higher CR to give it more poke. Say 11 or 11.5:1. I figure if your taking off the head you may aswell.

Thats about it.

But why buy an NA R32 when there are so many better NA options available?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231193-removing-turbo/#findComment-4060454
Share on other sites

The compression ratio of your RB20DE-T (as well as various flow characteristics of the cams etc, which I don't know is the same between NA and FI) isn't your only problem.

The gearing is completely different between the turbo cars and NA, so even if you pull apart the engine to increase the compression ratio and get its efficiency close to NA, the thing is still going to run like a dog. Theoretically you could just replace the final drive and leave the gearbox itself as-is and you'd get most of your performance back, but there's another expense.

For the cost of doing what you want to do to an R32 GTS-t, you could have bought a good car.

Also, its also debatable whether its legal for you to drive it. Some people have called the RTA, who've said its OK to take the turbo off, but a guy I know called the RTA who told him it was OK to drive a 350Z on his P's without an exception, even though its clearly marked in the banned list.

The wording of the rule is that P platers cannot drive cars where the engine performance has been "modified". Note, it doesn't say "increased", just changed from its factory specification. If your car is meant to have a turbo and doesn't, the performance is no longer the same as when it rolled off the factory floor. A "letter of the law" interpretation says the car is therefore still not P plater legal.

If a cop's in a bad mood, its a reasonable interpretation as an excuse to ruin your day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231193-removing-turbo/#findComment-4062191
Share on other sites

I don't know about 32s... but 33 na's I believe have slightly lumpier cams? don't quote me on that though. also, as everyone has already said... compression ratio... not to mention the pistons will be a little bit of a different shape as well... the turbo ones have a lump ontop and the na's are flat..(also from memory)... to be honest... its not worth it.... you will be spending that much money for absolutely 0.

if you do do it.... and you don't increase compression and all the rest of the crap... excels will flog you... it may be nice to say you drive a skyline.. but driving it would be horrible! just wait till a good na comes around. you will be much better off... or look at na silvias... 180s.... 200s... dont just limit yourself to one na import :P cuz there are heaps of other na imports!

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231193-removing-turbo/#findComment-4065687
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
i was looking at the same thing too but with a r33 cuz i want to put the turbo back on when i get my full licence..if money is not an issue then whats the downside?

In all honesty, you're better off just waiting until a suitable NA pops up, then selling it when you're ready for a turbo. Once you start pulling apart an engine, unless you're building up it lets all the gremlins in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231193-removing-turbo/#findComment-4101411
Share on other sites

In all honesty, you're better off just waiting until a suitable NA pops up, then selling it when you're ready for a turbo. Once you start pulling apart an engine, unless you're building up it lets all the gremlins in.

Im still gonna get a quote on the job anyways to see what price they reakon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231193-removing-turbo/#findComment-4101508
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...