Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 GTT/GTR Genuine Ganador mirrors - painted black $350 firm

R34 GTR Boot lid - no wing or badges, silver, $200

R34 GTT Coilpacks, all working - $230

R34 GTT floor mats (full set) - $220

R34 GTT front seats $400

R34 GTT rear seats $350

Email [email protected]

Melbourne pickup preferred.

Willing to post the ganador mirrors to north QLD? (Cairns)

If so, i'll buy em.

  • Replies 147
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R34 wong - ok email me to arrange pickup [email protected]

SLED - i'll do $180 pickup for the boot lid

Dal34 - $370 delivered for the ganador mirrors. yes they are genuine.

May also be selling nissan GTR carbon fibre rear under diffuser $700

R34 wong - ok email me to arrange pickup [email protected]

SLED - i'll do $180 pickup for the boot lid

Dal34 - $370 delivered for the ganador mirrors. yes they are genuine.

May also be selling nissan GTR carbon fibre rear under diffuser $700

All still for sale!

Mats $120

Front and Rear seats still available.

Rear GTR carbon fibre diffuser $700 ono

Still for sale:

R34 GTR/GTR boot lid $180

R34 GTR carbon fibre rear diffuser $650

R34 GTT front and rear seats $700

R34 GTR/GTT ganador mirrors $350

R34 GTT mats $120

pics of rear diffuser will be posted on tuesday

will separate front and rear seats. but front seats to be sold as a pair

email: [email protected]

:D

Interested in your pair of front seats. Can you please email me some pics for both seat conditions? Comes with OEM rails i presume. I'll come pick up. Where are you in Melbourne?

my email: [email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...