Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Diff Question

mark32gts-t
 Share

Recommended Posts

mark32gts-t Collaborator

mark32gts-t

Posted
Posted

My diff whines like hell and am considering just replacing the whole housing with a 2nd hand one. My question is this, my car has ABS and from what I understand it has an ABS sensor in it. Can this sensor be transferred across into a non ABS housing. I had a look on fast and there appears to be an illustration showing the sensor. Just not sure if the ABS section can be fitted into a non-abs diff housing. Included the fast image. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers

LSD.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231873-r32-diff-question/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

First off, do you have oil in the diff? Do you have enough oil in the diff? Do you have new oil in the diff?

Pretty sure the ABS sensors are on the output shafts of the diff. So all you need to do is transfer those from your current diff to the replacement diff.

mark32gts-t Collaborator

mark32gts-t

Posted
  • Author
Posted
First off, do you have oil in the diff? Do you have enough oil in the diff? Do you have new oil in the diff?

Pretty sure the ABS sensors are on the output shafts of the diff. So all you need to do is transfer those from your current diff to the replacement diff.

yes, diff oil has been replaced and is filled to the correct level. it only whines on deceleration, from what i've read its the meshing of the gears that have "play" due to wear and this is what whines... anyone else???

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted
Pretty sure the ABS sensors are on the output shafts of the diff. So all you need to do is transfer those from your current diff to the replacement diff.

Yes that is where the ABS sensors are, my Nismo diff came with new output shafts/flanges and they had the ABS sensors on them (my car doesn't have ABS).

mark32gts-t Collaborator

mark32gts-t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just thought I'd upload some pics of where the ABS sensor is located, for reference sake. Its on the tailshaft input and not on the driveshaft outputs. The sensor bolts into the actual housing so unless the non-abs diff has the hole blocked off I dont think its as easy as just swapping the sensor over. Thanks to the people who responded anyways. pics:

ABSSemsor1.jpg

ABSSensor.jpg

mark32gts-t Collaborator

mark32gts-t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think it would be possible to swap the internals over. But I dont really have time to be doing it right now.If I have to swap stuff over I may as well do what 'White GTS-T' said and buy a two way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • TurboTapin
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • MBS206
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...